{"id":286,"date":"2007-08-10T08:45:22","date_gmt":"2007-08-10T12:45:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.summerofjim.com\/2007\/08\/10\/the-angels-wept\/"},"modified":"2007-08-10T08:51:06","modified_gmt":"2007-08-10T12:51:06","slug":"the-angels-wept","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/?p=286","title":{"rendered":"The Angels Wept"},"content":{"rendered":"

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You could say that I was planning the afternoon for a year (actually it was 53 weeks).\u00a0 A year ago we hosted a wine tasting of White Grand Cru Burgundies… and it was one of the most successful tastings we have ever put on.\u00a0 It was doubly rewarding because our guests were, by and large, big red <\/em>aficionados… and by evening’s end they stood in awe of the wines that had been presented.\u00a0 The lesson had been a simple one: truly great wines know no “colour”.<\/em><\/p>\n

Organizing a flight of White Grand Crus is by far our most difficult undertaking of the year.\u00a0 So little Grand Cru is produced.\u00a0 2% of the total vines planted in Burgundy are classified as Grand Cru.\u00a0 Of that total, less than 2% is White.\u00a0 Five of the six Grand Cru White vineyards are nestled between the villages of Chassagne and Puligny.\u00a0 Together they could fit inside of the Red Grand Cru Clos du Vougeot vineyard.<\/p>\n

In the course of our business there is a “give and take” between importers, distributors and merchants.\u00a0 Favors done, and favors due.\u00a0 To put on the Grand Cru Tasting this past Saturday, our owner, John Caplan had to call in on all past favors due, and<\/em> went into debt on future favors owed.<\/p>\n

Yes… I was looking forward to this Tasting.\u00a0 As much for the folks attending (one couple traveling from Arkansas) as to the wines themselves.\u00a0 When John had put the finishing touches to the flight we both knew something… you would be hard pressed to find a Tasting its equal in America.<\/p>\n

We began the afternoon with William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ ’05<\/strong>.\u00a0 Unfortunately, too many Americans hear “Chablis” and they think of Paul Masson in a jug.\u00a0 The California wine industry has stolen a name <\/em>to add “saleability” to their product — although it has nothing to do with the original product other than they are both liquids.\u00a0 I love Chablis.\u00a0 Its unique version of Chardonnay is a product of the distinct clay and limestone soil that gives Chablis its mineral character.\u00a0 The sub-soil is built on a shelf of crushed pre-historic oyster shells… no wonder pairing crisp Chablis with oysters is considered one of the classic food and wine combinations.\u00a0 Grand Cru Chablis ages beautifully, too and the Fevre was stunning… a great way to launch the afternoon.<\/p>\n

There is no Grand Cru Meursault… but there are great wines produced there… certainly wines that would merit inclusion in any Tasting covering the best from Burgundy.\u00a0 Our choice was Domaine Francois & Antoine Jobard Mersault 1er Cru ‘Poruzots’ ’04<\/strong>.\u00a0 Jobard wines have the reputation of taking years to open, and this wine certainly ran true to form.\u00a0 This was the most “closed” of the wines on the day.\u00a0 Behind the cloak of youth, you got the glimpse of a beautifully made wine, rich flavors touched with the characteristic minerality of Meursault… although I didn’t detect the hint of smoke that I love from this region.\u00a0 The wine needs at least 2 to 3 years for it to begin showing its best.\u00a0 Classically styled, it commands “Grand Cru” pricing.<\/p>\n

The wine that followed was the only\u00a0repeat from the Tasting a year ago: Domaine de la Vougerie Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 1er Cru ’02<\/strong>.\u00a0 We put this wine into the flight a year ago for its novelty.\u00a0 A tiny parcel of the Grand Cru Red <\/em>Clos de Vougeot vineyard had been planted to Chardonnay to make a white wine, although white did not gain the Grand Cru status of its “red brother”.\u00a0 We returned the wine to our flight this year, in part\u00a0 because we could still access it, and in part to see how the wine had progressed.\u00a0 The wine did not disappoint.\u00a0 The aroma was lush with ripe fruit well balanced by oak.\u00a0 A smooth palate followed and lead to a beautiful finish.\u00a0 For those who had tasted the wine last year, this was a true treat… it shows how well Burgundies improve when we\u00a0practice a little patience.\u00a0 <\/p>\n

We tasted two Cortons next, side by side. Domaine Bonneau du Martray Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne ’03 <\/strong>and Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Domaine du Pavillon ’05<\/strong>.\u00a0 The Bonneau du Martray had the advantage of an open bouquet that was breathtaking… it covered <\/em>the nose of the younger Bichot.\u00a0 But it was the Bichot that took honors on palate and finish.\u00a0 And particularly on finish.\u00a0 The wine combined the best of elegance, blended flavors and a persistent finish that continued to caress the senses.\u00a0 The Bichot is headed for stardom.<\/p>\n

Our next stops were in “Montrachet land.”\u00a0 We would be trying 4 of the 5 vineyards… from one point to the next, they cover a mere half mile.\u00a0 First up: Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru ’03<\/strong>.\u00a0 Beautiful hue and aromatics to match, this wine had a “sinfully” lush texture that\u00a0filled the palate.\u00a0 Yet it’s mark was carrying off the layers of flavor, silky feel while still exhibiting balance and restraint.\u00a0 This is what makes Burgundy, Burgundy<\/em>… <\/em>and reduces other white wine to post script status.<\/p>\n

The vineyard of Criots-Batard-Montrachet looks like a “sliver.”\u00a0 It is by far the smallest of the Grand Cru vineyards… a postage stamp really.\u00a0 Our entry was Blain-Gagnard Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru ’03<\/strong>.\u00a0 The wine received high points for its complexity… tropical fruit, minerality and kissed with a touch of petroleum.\u00a0 This was a wine to taste.\u00a0 And put down.\u00a0 Taste again, and put down.\u00a0 Scratch out some notes on a notepad.\u00a0 Taste again.\u00a0 Cross out what you had written and begin again.\u00a0 This is a wine that rewards the careful.\u00a0 Beautiful layering.\u00a0 It seduces rather than dominates.\u00a0 It is why some folks say never trust your first taste of Burgundy.<\/p>\n

We missed tasting a Bienvenue-Bartard-Montrachet; but offered instead a side by side tasting of Blain-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru ’03 <\/strong>and Louis Latour Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru ’05<\/strong>.\u00a0 I will confess… before<\/em> tasting I was biased against <\/em>the Louis Latour.\u00a0 In a region renown for tiny holdings, Latour is an “elephant”.\u00a0 Latour possesses 71 acres in Grand Cru Vineyards.\u00a0 No other producer comes close to that.\u00a0 And worse than that, the Latour’s also have a “commercial side”… making a ton of every day wine… wines that never match the prestige <\/em>of their name.\u00a0 Taking nothing away from the Blain-Gagnard, which was outstanding, the Louis Latour was a spectacular <\/em>wine.\u00a0 Maybe it was the vintage?\u00a0 Regardless, each taste confirmed that this was a liquid thoroughbred.\u00a0 The other wines tasted were great… this was better.\u00a0 <\/em>More flavour.\u00a0 More balance.\u00a0 More power wrapped in elegance.\u00a0 More length.\u00a0 This was a wine to be reckoned with, and the final wine in the flight would be stretched to surpass it.<\/p>\n

Stretched that is… unless it’s Le Montrachet.\u00a0 But I am used to “upstarts”.\u00a0 Last year the Batard-Montrachet put Le Montrachet in its shadow.\u00a0 That was last <\/em>year; but this<\/em> year Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru ’04<\/strong> reigned supreme.\u00a0 The ultimate wine.\u00a0 There are a hand full of wines that “show up” every time… an outright “win” or a “near miss”… Ch. Latour, Ch. D’Yquem, Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, come to mind.\u00a0 Montrachet fits into that company.\u00a0 This Montrachet was purely sublime.\u00a0 It was so excellent… you didn’t even notice it.\u00a0 Yes, the Latour Batard was truly great<\/em>, but the Jadot Montrachet tasted of superior breeding and pedigree.\u00a0 Its excellence was its routine, its nature<\/em>.\u00a0 Je suis le Montrachet!<\/em>\u00a0 The wine had perfect balance and pitch, strength wrapped in subtlety, complexity of flavours layering on the palate and haunting length… Attributes that we easily accept in our special reds; but that will catch us by surprise when we experience it in whites<\/em>.<\/p>\n

This afternoon we all agreed that the Montrachet was the most special of wines, and worthy of its lofty price tag.<\/p>\n

As is my custom… I like to rank my favorites.\u00a0 The Judge at Westminster has to do the same thing.\u00a0 After all… all the dogs in the final show ring are Champions, yet the Judge has to select the Best of Show from among their number.\u00a0 It’s going out on the line… but not as far as you think… can you really make a mistake picking a Champion from a group of Champions?<\/p>\n

Reflecting on Saturday’s tasting, I guess I feel the same… how big of a mistake can I make?\u00a0 Here goes: Jadot Montrachet, Latour Batard-Montrachet… and I’m going to notch the Fevre Chablis over the Bichon Corton-Charlemagne.<\/p>\n

Truth be told… each of the wines were champions<\/em>… and when the room quieted on Saturday, I do believe I could hear the angels weeping for joy.<\/p>\n

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You could say that I was planning the afternoon for a year (actually it was 53 weeks).\u00a0 A year ago we hosted a wine tasting of White Grand Cru Burgundies… and it was one of the most successful tastings we … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-286","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-wine"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/286","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=286"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/286\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=286"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=286"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/summerofjim.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=286"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}