Sometime after 48 AD the Roman Legions made it to St. Emilion and established vineyards to produce wine.\u00a0 It\u2019s a thirsty business, conquering the world. From these humble beginnings along the Gironde estuary and the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, the history of the world\u2019s greatest wine would be written\u2026 the wine we call Bordeaux. <\/p>\n
It wouldn\u2019t be until the 12th<\/sup> Century before the wines of Bordeaux gained in exposure beyond its immediate region. \u00a0In 1152 when Henry Plantagnet, Duke of Normandy and two years later crowned King of England, took Eleanor of Aquitaine\u2019s hand in marriage, Bordeaux and their vineyards became a territory of England.\u00a0 Export of the wine the English called claret<\/strong>, would begin in earnest, and continue with only minor inconveniences like the 100 Years War to disrupt a robust trade.<\/p>\n If wars and acquisition coloured the story of Bordeaux, its history is carved in its land.\u00a0 Bordeaux is close to the sea and threaded by rivers which act to moderate the climate.\u00a0 A thick forest on the ocean side offers protection to the harsh salt winds. The stout bedrock is packed with minerals and yet the topsoil is quite poor; but perfectly suited for viticulture. Dionysus blessed this land.<\/p>\n The Rivers that cut thru Bordeaux establish rough boundaries where land, facings, proximity to the rivers all produce unique characteristics to the vineyards and wines that they would subsequently produce. Over time it became clear that the red varietals that were best matched to Bordeaux\u2019s terroir <\/em>were Merlot<\/strong>, Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>, Cabernet Franc<\/strong>, Petit Verdot<\/strong> and Malbec<\/strong>. Each area, vineyard and wine estate would have its own \u201crecipe\u201d for the best mix.<\/p>\n It is a varied recipe indeed, although there are broad based similarities based on blend and location.\u00a0<\/p>\n On the \u201cright bank\u201d of the Dordogne are the Communes of St. Emilion<\/strong>, Pomerol <\/strong>and a host of \u201csatellite\u201d appellations. It is here that we find some of the most exclusive wines of Bordeaux: Ch. Petrus<\/strong> and Ch. Cheval Blanc. <\/strong>Merlot is the most important varietal on the right bank<\/em>, with Petrus being made of 100% Merlot.<\/p>\n Between the Dordogne and Garonne is Bordeaux\u2019 largest appellation: Entre-Deux-Mers<\/em><\/strong> which in main is planted to white varietals: Sauvignon Blanc<\/strong>, Semillon<\/strong>. Muscadelle<\/strong> and Ugni Blanc<\/strong>. Along the fringe of the Garonne itself is Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux `<\/strong>where red wine is also produced and where some of the best value Bordeaux can be found.<\/p>\n The \u201cleft bank\u201d has three important sub-divisions. Graves<\/strong>, sitting just south the City of Bordeaux along the Garonne, further\u00a0south is Sauternes<\/strong> and the Medoc<\/strong>, north of the City, is located along the Gironde Estuary.\u00a0 Sauternes and its satellite, Barsac<\/strong>\u00a0produce Bordeaux’ renown dessert wine, while the vineyards of Graves and the Medoc are planted principally to Cabernet Sauvignon.<\/p>\n Graves, so named for the gravelly content of the soil, is home to Ch. Haut Brion<\/strong>, which owns the distinction of being Bordeaux\u2019 first wine identified and sold by the name of the estate. In 1663 Samuel Pepys wrote in The Diarist <\/em>having tasted a wine in the Royal Oak Tavern, which he then\u00a0described as \u201ca sort of French wine called Ho Bryen that hath a good and most particular taste I never met with”.<\/p>\n Although insignificant in the early days of Bordeaux trade, by the 18th<\/sup> Century wines from the Medoc began to emerge as being among the best from Bordeaux. Already the Estates of Lafite, Latour and Margaux were recognized for producing wines of distinction. It was the Classification of 1855<\/strong> established by a group of wine brokers, however,\u00a0that identified the Medoc as the preeminent region of Bordeaux.\u00a0 Sixty-one Estates were placed into Growths… <\/em>from First thru Fifth, placement being a reflection of\u00a0the price of specific\u00a0wines fetched at auctions over the previous 100+ years.\u00a0 Rated as First Growth, not surprisingly, Ch. Lafite<\/strong>, Ch. Latour<\/strong>, Ch. Margaux<\/strong> and Ch. Haut Brion<\/strong> (the only Estate not coming from the Medoc), whose excellent wines were the most desirable vintage after vintage, after vintage. <\/p>\n In 1953 Graves established it’s own Classification, and St. Emilion followed suit in 1955.\u00a0 The wines of Pomerol remain unclassified, although it is generally agreed that both Ch. Petrus<\/strong> and Ch. Le Pin<\/strong> make First Growth quality, and indeed their wines, given their tiny production levels, usually sell at higher prices than any of the other First Growth wines.<\/p>\n Beneath the pinnicle of the “officially” Classified Estates three other levels of ranking were eventually created: Cru Exceptionnel<\/strong>, Cru Bourgeois Superieur<\/strong>\u00a0and Cru Bourgeois<\/strong>. And indeed\u00a0there are thousands<\/em> of Bordeaux Estates that are not part of any classification or ranking.<\/p>\n Tradition is all well and good; but changes in ownership, changes in vineyards, changes in winemaking teams and their philosophies all\u00a0have certainly had a telling effect on the quality of wine being produced at an Estate, and if the same standard of pricing were to be applied, the Classification of 1855 would have to be revised.\u00a0 Not only would we see a shuffling of the order; but\u00a0certain Estates that would fall off, and others that would have to be elevated.<\/p>\n Well… what does all this mean?\u00a0 For all the fancy history, impressive buildings — some Chateaux <\/em>are indeed castles<\/em>, although most are not — and their poetic names, are the wines really that good? It’s safe to say that for someone who loves wine, there will always be a small place for Bordeaux in your cellar… even if you prefer, say Napa Cabs or Aussie Shiraz.<\/p>\n But that side steps the issue.\u00a0 The fact remains that the rest of the winemaking world turns to Bordeaux for inspiration and comparison… and they do so for a reason.\u00a0 The wines are<\/em> that good. And as vine cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (and the other Bordeaux varietals) made their way around the planet to Napa, the Margaret River, Mendoza, Stellenbosch\u00a0and Bolgheri, producers from those regions looked to do one thing… make the best wines possible, make wines that could compare to Bordeaux!<\/p>\n Is every wine from Bordeaux great?\u00a0 Does every Bordeaux empty your wallet?\u00a0 No and no.\u00a0 Of the thousands of wines that find their way into the market, there will be wines that will disappoint, there will be wines perfect for every day enjoyment, there will be the hidden jewel that is surprisingly well priced for its superb quality, and there will be wines that are the finest wines made and that will stand any test of time.<\/p>\n Experiencing Bordeaux thru its wines is a magnificent journey.\u00a0 It begins with opening a bottle.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Sometime after 48 AD the Roman Legions made it to St. Emilion and established vineyards to produce wine.\u00a0 It\u2019s a thirsty business, conquering the world. From these humble beginnings along the Gironde estuary and the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, the … Continue reading