The other day Sandy was busy assembling the salad course for our dinner… adding some cut carrots and celery to salad in the bag. I couldn’t resist pinching a few. I was nosily crunching my way when a small picture came to mind. I found myself in the breakfast room of 25 Alston Avenue. It would have been 7:45 or so on a weeknight. Although I had already eaten (remembering that we had à la carte dinning), I was waiting for Dad to come home. He would have taken the 6:00PM train out of Grand Central. And on the table when Dad sat down would be a small plate with carrot sticks and celery. Sometimes I would help myself to a few.
Thinking about this… the carrots and celery was not a Mommie Soph thing. This was not some Eastern European culinary tradition. But it was a Race Brook Country Club thing! When we would sit down to dinner at the Club, a relish tray (spiced crab apples, cottage cheese, and Indian corn relish) would be put down, and so would a dish of carrots, celery (and black olives).
Maybe this happened in other Country Clubs, or in other homes, too. But somehow it strikes me as a small piece out of sync. It was like Dad (and/or Mom) wanting to extend a “goyish country club detail” to our home. Not this was in my thinking in 1957. No, seeing the carrots and celery on the table meant that Dad was home for dinner.
This is a variation on a dish prepared by my Grandmother Mommie Soph: Lox, onions & eggs. It was my favorite Sunday morning breakfast, and made with enough butter so you could actually hear your arteries congealing and further… the smell of cooking salmon lasted in the kitchen for a good two days. In the past I have faithfully executed Mommie Soph’s recipe to an aromatic and textural “T”! However, I was looking for a “brunch” dish that would be both lighter in tone and also take advantage of a surplus of matzo in the house. Let me quickly say what is obvious to some, and not so obvious to others… matzo loses its appeal 20 minutes after the Seder Dinner has concluded, thereby creating an immediate surplus. For this dish matzo conveniently provides the necessary foundation to support the dish; and maybe, just maybe… justifies keeping some matzo in the house year ‘round.
I chose to open a bottle of Rosé from Provence. It’s a perfect wine for brunches and light lunches. And more to the point, it’s a way for us to mentally “open the door” to Spring! Other lighter wines that would work: Sancerre, Bordeaux Blanc and Soave Classico.
Château Sainte-Croix Rosé ’14 (Côtes de Provence,France) There is a saying in France: Le Rosé, c’est en Provence qu’il est né… “Provence is the ‘birthplace’ of Rosé”. Travel throughout the South of France… go to the cafés & bistros and on every table you’ll find bottles of chilled Rosés being happily consumed. Regardless of the dishes being served and regardless of personal wealth, as we pivot to warmer days the wine of Europe is Rosé, and the best Rosés come from Provence. Château Sainte-Croix has been owned by 4 generations of the Pélépol family and they refer to this bottling as “100% Provence” because it represents Provence at its best! The 2014 is a classic blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault and 20% Syrah. The 2014 has a delicate shell pink hue, light floral and fruit aromas lead to an elegant palate laced with an excellent finishing minerality. Silky texture, clean finish, refreshing from first sip to last… Le printemps est arrivé!!
SMOKED SALMON FRITTATA
Ingredients 6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin ½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth A goodly amount of ice 3 olives stuffed with blue cheese 6 jumbo eggs 1½ matzo, broken into small pieces ¼ onion, chopped 3oz. smoked salmon, cut into small squares ¼ cup capers, drained & rinsed 1 tbsp water ¼ tsp fresh ground pepper 1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
Directions 1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size. Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming. Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!
2. In a bowl beat the eggs, add the water & the broken pieces of matzo. Add fresh ground pepper, mix well and set aside.
3. In a small skillet stir fry onions over medium low heat just ‘til softened (and not browned). About 2 minutes. Take off heat and set aside.
4. In a large non-stick skillet coated with a healthy amount of the “butter” spray of your choice, bring heat up to high and add the egg-matzo mixture. Spread the matzo pieces evenly across the eggs, letting the mixture “set” without scrambling. About 3 minutes. Place the onions, salmon & capers evenly on the eggs. Top with fresh chopped dill, cover and take off heat. After a minute or so, slide the fritatta onto a cutting board and slice with a pizza cutter!
n.b. Matzo foreign to you? Use Carr’s water crackers as a perfect substitute. For those who feel that it is necessary, Nova Lox is excellent in place of smoked salmon. I don’t know what Mommie Soph would think about Pam spray, or other“ butter” sprays, as a replacement for a stick of butter. Be that as it may… I use spray. Theoretically this dish is meant to serve 4. But my Grandmother didn’t put too much confidence into theories, and neither do I.
Before crossing the Rubicon River in 44BCE, Julius Caesar took time to time to write to his ally and colleague, Brutus…
Dear Brutus,
I am ready to make my return to Rome. I am bringing a Legion, and knowing that it is a violation to Roman Law and authority, I am prepared to bring battle to my opponents. The blood of my enemies will flow like a river. I will win. I will rejoice in their agony. I will put dung beetles on their rotting corpses! On the lighter side, in my baggage train are 20,000 cases of wine from Gaul (it’s good to be Caesar!). I have Sancerre from the Loire, crisp Rieslings from Alsace, all the Grand Cru Burgundies, excellent Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, I took all of the Ch. Cheval Blanc that I could get my hands on and some delightful sipping Rosés from Provence. Oh, and some cheddar cheese from Britain.
Once I have defeated that weasel Pompey and all the Senators that support him, I want you to arrange a triumph. I want floats, bands, caged beasts and prostitutes. After a week of frivolity, we are going to open the J. & B. Wine Emporium… Julius and Brutus! I have purchased a perfect location on the Appian Way (plenty of parking for chariots and ox carts!). I have even thought of our slogan… “Wines for the Nobility at Citizens’ Prices!” You and I will be rich and I can pay off my substantial debts.
And so Brutus… how’s by you?
Julie
The response from Brutus…
Dear Julie,
I am looking forward to your return. Pompey is actively plotting against you. But you will win Julie… Ev’ry guy here’d love to be you Julie, even when taking your lumps. There’s no man in town as admired as you, you’re ev’ryone’s favorite guy. Ev’ryone’s awed and inspired by you, and it’s not very hard to see why. No one’s slick as Julie, no one’s quick as Julie, no one’s neck’s as incredibly thick as Julie’s. For there’s no man in town half as manly. Perfect, a pure paragon! You can ask any Tom, Dick or Stanley and they’ll tell you whose team they prefer to be on!
I’ll begin planning the triumph. I’m thinking your float can have vine cuttings from Gaul and a miniature villa. You will be riding on a donkey in front of it dressed like Bacchus with a fake beard, surrounded by an entourage of nymphs, fawns and centaurs! As for the Emporium… the slogan works! But I’m thinking that B. & J. Wine Emporium has a better sound… Brutus & Julius.
Brutus
A memo from Julius Caesar to Brutus dated Prid. Id. Mart. {March 14th 44BCE}
From the Desk of Caesar
Prid. Id. Mart.
Brutus:
I want to run an “Ides of March Sale” tomorrow. Move all the cases of the 47BCE Bordeaux to the front of the shop and mark them down 50%. They’re past good drinking and we might as well convert those cases into cash. Put the Port’s and Madeira’s into the remainder bins, down 35%. But send a case of Rainwater Madeira to Lucius Cimber. Charge that dirt bag full price. Create a mixed display of Whites — Albariño’s, Pinot Blanc’s and Grüner Veltliner’s and make a large sign “Special Sale, Flavorful Weekend Whites Now 20% Off Suggested Retail Prices!” And then a smaller sign underneath “While Supplies Last!” We got to begin pushing white wines. Set up a wine tasting table for Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Torrontes. Put the sandwich board sign next to the table “Add some tasty spice to your Holiday Table — Today Only 25% Off!!” Something else… I just cut a huge deal with one of our distributors who is going out of business (actually I had him murdered… it’s good to be Caesar!) — Clear some space near the fire exit in the back, we have 200 cases of Châteauneuf du Pape and 20 cases of Krug Champagne coming in. Oh, and also three wheels of Jarlsberg cheese. Have two sent up to my Villa, and the third over to that goniff Gaius Casca with my complements. I will meet with these nuisance Senators tomorrow. Please plan an orgy for the evening. What Senator doesn’t love a good orgy!
See you tomorrow!
Julie
The Ides of March, Brutus overheard muttering as he left the Theatre of Pompey, “B. & J. Wine Emporium has a much better sound…”
n.b. The line “And so Brutus… how’s by you” in its orignal Latin appears as Et tu, Brute
Last week I tasted an incredible white wine from Piedmont… the 2013 Castellari Bergaglio ‘Fornaci’ Gavi. Gavi is one of the finest white wines made in the world, although it comes from a region better known for its majestic reds… Barolo and Barbaresco. But make no mistake, the richness of this particular wine is grand on its own and a suitable match for a full flavored dish. I have had other Gavi’s before; but none can surpass this one. I immediately loved the wine for its complexity. Not merely fruit or floral, the wine has a marvelous scent with a garden herbal accent that transitioned perfectly to the palate. Smooth texture with a satisfying palate cleansing level of acidity, which is why this wine is a natural for a great food dish.
Having selected my wine I then turned my attention to find an accompanying recipe. I found an easy recipe (easy is very important for me) that utilized boneless chicken breasts with a simple sauce using mushrooms, pearl onions and tarragon. I served the chicken with “Any-Night Baked Rice”… a recipe from Wini Moranville’s The Bonne Femme Cookbook. Food and wine worked splendidly. Other wine choices that would have done very well… a Red Côte de Beaune Burgundy, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, Cru Beaujolais, or a Barbera (a lighter version).
Castellari Bergaglio ‘Fornaci’ Gavi ‘13 (Piedmont,Italy) 100% Cortese. Medium-deep green-gold. Ripe scents of yellow apple and floral are blended with a note of talcum powder and garden herb; shows less of the stony overlay of the Gavis from Rovereto. The ripe citrus and anise flavors take a tropical turn, picking up a pineapple quality on the rather long, fresh finish. A textbook example of the Gavis made in the area of Tassarolo, less mineral and more fruit-forward than those of Rovereto. I’d drink this beauty over the next year or two.
CHICKEN CUTLETS W/TARRAGON-MUSHROOM SAUCE
Ingredients 6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin ½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth A goodly amount of ice 3 blue cheese stuffed olives 2 cups unsalted chicken stock ½ carrot, cut into 1 inch pieces ½ celery stalk, cut into 1 inch pieces ¼ onion, halved 1 bay leaf 4 (6 oz) skinless, boneless chicken breast halves ½ tsp kosher salt, divided ½ tsp black pepper divided 3 tbsp all-purpose flour 2 tbsp olive oil, divided 1 cup quartered mushrooms ½ cup frozen pearl onions 1 tbsp water 2½ tsp cornstarch 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
Directions 1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size. Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming. Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!
2. Bring chicken stock ½ carrot, ½ celery stalk, ¼ onion, 1 bay leaf to a boil in a saucepan. Cook 6 minutes or until reduced to 1¼ cups. Remove solids with a slotted spoon; discard.
3. Cut chicken breast halves horizontally to form 8 cutlets. Sprinkle evenly with a ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Place flour in a shallow dish; dredge chicken in flour. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and 1 teaspoon butter to pan; swirl to coat. Add cutlets 4 to a pan; cook 2 minutes on each side or until golden. Remove from pan; cover with foil to keep warm. Repeat procedure with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon of butter, and 4 cutlets.
4. Return skillet to medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and onions; cook 5 minutes or until browned. Add stock mixture; bring to a boil, scraping pan to loosen browned bits. Combine 1 tablespoon water and cornstarch. Stir cornstarch mixture into stock mixture; cook 1 minute or until the sauce thickens. Stir in remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper, and tarragon. Spoon sauce over chicken.
ANY NIGHT BAKED RICE From Wini Moranville
Ingredients 1 tbsp unsalted butter ¼ cup finely chopped onion 1 clove garlic, minced 1 cup long grain rice ¼ tsp dried thyme, crushed 1½ cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 bay leaf
Directions 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Melt butter in a flameproof, ovenproof pot with a heavy lid over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender but not brown, 4-5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
2. Add the rice and dried thyme; cook and stir about 1 minute more (the rice should be nicely coated with butter and starting to cook, but not yet brown). Add the broth and bay leaf; stir to break up any clumps of rice. Bring to a boil.
3. Cover the pot tightly and slide it into the oven. Bake the rice for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand, covered for 5 minutes.
4. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Stir the rice with a fork and serve immediately. Or let stand, covered, in a warm place for up to 20 minutes more. If desired, sprinkle with fresh thyme.
n.b. The rice recipe is insane. I kept the rice on an unheated back burner while I finished preparing the mushroom-tarragon sauce.
