Long before I became directly involved in the wine business, I was smitten with the idea of enjoying specific wines with different foods. And as a natural extension it only seemed right that different food courses should have designated wines meant to pair with each dish. Circa 1980 I was treated to a dinner that put this wine in concert with food courses into full play. The restaurant was Cellar in the Sky. It was the small interior space of Windows on the World that lacked the amazing views — views that stretched from the Azores in this window to Grosse Pointe in that window, but made up for this lack of view with a fabulous prix fixe menu paired with wines. To begin, Windows’ somm Kevin Zraly picked five wines, and then the Chef de Cuisine created a menu to blend. It elevated dinner to dinning. I was on the 107th floor of the World Trade Center’s North Tower, not quite heaven; but in heaven.
Then it became my turn. In 1999 I entered the business side of wine. And between 2001 and 2003 I hosted 200+ wine dinners across the State of Connecticut. I worked with some wonderful chefs & restaurateurs. I would outline in template what I was looking for in courses, then once the menu was established I set out to pair wines with each of the courses. I loved the challenge and the joy in selecting a wine that would just sing with a food course. There is so much, much more than red wine with meat and white wine with fish. Sometimes I miss it. But my thinking was that if I didn’t tumble occasionally I wasn’t trying hard enough.
We arrive at Victoria & Albert’s on February 5, 2026. V&A is located in the Grand Floridian Resort in WDW. It is a 5 Diamond rated Restaurant in the AAA Guide, and a year ago it was awarded a Star from Guide Michelin. Eight courses (nine if you include the bread service) with wine. I have had the V&A on my “must do” list for my Disney week for the last half dozen years. I’ve had the cost for the dinner fully funded and set aside, but every year when I would plan the restaurants for the week I would pencil in V&A and then have second thoughts and retreat. Was it really worth the steep price tag? After an evening of superior service (including an exceptional harpist), splendid dishes & amazing wines on Feb 5 the answer was provided: Yes, worth every penny. In the Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World 2026 the thumbnail of V&A concludes, “As long as you are OK with the price, you will never regret a meal here.”
With regard to the wine service, I only had familiarity with two producers: Tramin & Coltibuono. The others? New territory for me. Each wine was an exciting journey to wines not known.
With each course in perfect sync, why go thru the exercise of picking a favorite? I do it because I like to. It makes me think and make a memory imprint.
My favorite pairing was the Tramin Gewürz with the Bluefin Tuna. First, the Tramin was the best Gewürz I’ve had not named Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru. But whereas the strength of Zind can blow you away, what I loved about the Tramin was its pure elegance, the deftness of flavor that simply drifted on the palate. The wine slid seamlessly to the tuna which was scented with lychee that sealed the deal. Outstanding.
My favorite wine was the Rioja Reserva. I have a soft spot for the Tempranillo based wines of Spain. 13 years from harvest, the wine was a pure show pony. Deep shade, intoxicating scent, deeply flavored, cashmere on palate and lingering flavors that extended to the horizon.
My favorite food course was the toothfish. That speaks volumes when both venison (my favorite) and waygu beef (miyazaki A-5) are on the menu. But the toothfish is often referred to as the “waygu of the sea.” Great meat courses are to be expected. Standout seafood dishes are immediately separated from the herd. Special, special course.
The Menu:
Amuse Bouche: Beef Short Rib, XO Sauce, Egg Yolk; Honeynut, Ibérico, Affinois; Ora King Salmon, Saamjang, Masago
Robert Moncuit “Les Grands Blancs” Grand Cru Côte de Blancs (Champagne, France)
Les Grands Blancs is a Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs is composed of approximately 80% Le Mesnil for tension, chalk-driven freshness, and longevity, and 20% Oger for ripeness, volume, and structural depth. The NV Extra-Brut Les Grands Blancs is a rich, vinous Champagne that shows the more extroverted side of Mesnil. Low dosage brings that out even more. Lemon confit, marzipan dried flowers, spice and chamomile add striking inner sweetness to a wine that balances power with translucent energy. The Grands Blancs is a terrific introduction to these wines. 92pts Vinous
Bluefin Tuna, Lychee, Imperial Gold Osetra
Cantina Tramin Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer ’23 (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy)
The 2023 Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer opens with a refined blend of tropical green melon, kiwi, split pine and exotic spice. It is silken in feel with cooling acidity and a minty herbal freshness, as citrus-infused pit fruits swirl beneath an air of sweet inner florals. Long and lively, it finishes with a gentle inner tension and a resonance of candied lime. 93pts Vinous
Glacier 51 Toothfish, Lobster, Pernod
Château Simone Palette Blanc ’21 (Provence, France)
Owned by generations of the Rougier family for nearly 200 years, Simone delicately crafts their supernatural Palette Blanc from a sorcerous blend (Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc, Picpoul, Muscat, Sémillon) of ancient raw material and ages it in their hand-dug 16th-century cellar far longer than most. This stunning white seduces yet stays remarkably fresh and lively through the well-meshed palate, showing acacia flower, spiced apple and warm hay notes. There’s a chamomile hint and a slightly honeyed edge to the rich palate, with impressive texture and harmony. This offers the structure and substance to age well, too. Drink now through 2030. 250 cases imported. 93pts Wine Spectator
Dover Sole, Hokkaido Scallop, Hazelnut
Nino Negri Alpi Retiche Ca’ Brione ’21 (Lombardy, Italy)
This superexotic white from the terraces of Valtallina is made from 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 30% Incrocio Manzoni, 10% Nebbiolo vinified white. The Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are both partially dried before vinification, giving the wine greater aromatic intensity and richness. The wine has aromas of baked peaches, roasted apples, dried alpine flowers and sweet baking spices. The palate is very lush with grilled pineapple, creamed pear, wild herbs and toasted acacia, finishing with crisp mountain acidity. 91pts Wine Enthusiast
Parisian Gnocchi, Medjool Date, Fontina
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Langhe Nebbiolo “No Name” ’22 (Piedmont, Italy)
15 years ago Borgogno submitted two Barolo samples made the same way, aged in two separate casks, to the Barolo tasting commission. They approved one cask sample, but not the other. Borgogno was determined to share the rejected wine with the world, a wine denied of a name, hence “No Name.” Delicate yet assertive, this Langhe Nebbiolo opens with aromas of wild red plums, tart cherries, and a bouquet of dark, brooding roses, underscored by savory herbs that evoke the hills of Piedmont. The flavors echo the nose seamlessly, with a vibrant interplay of bright fruit and subtle earthiness. Fine, present tannins gently frame the wine, giving it structure without overwhelming its graceful charm. 92pts Wine Enthusiast; 92pts Wine Spectator
Venison Tenderloin, Cranberry, Juniper
Château des Graviers ’19 (Margaux, Bordeaux)
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Carmenère. Proprietor Christophe Landryvinifies each variety and each parcel separately, adopting different vinification techniques based on the cépage, and all fermentations occur spontaneously. The wine spends 18 months mostly in 225-liter barriques (25% of which are new), with some 600-liter tonneaux, and the occasional clay jar and concrete hexagon. Deep, vibrant ruby with a youthful edge. A complex bouquet of taut red fruits—raspberry and cherry—intertwined with earthy undertones reminiscent of river rocks. Delicate floral hints of violet and subtle herbal notes emerge, enriched by a whisper of spice and oak. The wine presents a beautifully balanced profile. There’s a mouthcoating richness that harmonizes with the lively acidity. Flavors of red berries meld with deeper notes of graphite and crushed stone, while the integration of various fermentation techniques adds layers of complexity. The finish is long and elegant, with a mineral edge that lingers, punctuated by refined tannins and a subtle touch of oak.
Miyazaki A-5, Chestnut, Bacon
Bodegas R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Bosconia Reserva ’13 (Rioja, Spain)
A blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha and 5% Graciano & Mazuelo sourced from El Bosque, a 58-year-old vineyard. The 2013 Reserva matured in barrels for five years. Savory berries, preserved plums, iron, orange peel, dry earth, walnut husks, graphite and mussel shells. Full-bodied with depth and excellent structure. Tannins are grippy yet fine-grained and juicy, with a long, bright finish. A select, concentrated vintage. 95pts James Suckling; 93pts Wine Advocate
P’tit Basque, Raspberry, Olive Oil
Badia a Coltibuono Vin Santo del Chianti Classico ’17 (Tuscany, Italy)
The fruit is hand-picked and comes from 17-year-old vines of Monti in Chianti grown specifically for the production of the Vin Santo. Bunches are carefully selected and left to dry in well-ventilated rooms. Fermentation with wild yeast and aging takes place in small oak casks. The wine matures 7 years in cask and oak barriques. Dried fig, orange peel, caramel, walnut and brown butter aromas and flavors grace this racy and elegant Vin Santo. Tangy on the finish, where the caramel, roasted walnut and brown butter accents linger. Trebbiano and Malvasia. Drink now through 2040. 95pts Wine Spectator
