Lox, Onions & Eggs

While it is true that Mommie Soph’s “recipe book” had neither the volume nor diversity of a The Fanny Farmer Cookbook, there were elements in her canon that were true masterpieces.  And I am proud to say, nay… incredibly proud to say that I acquired one!  Sorry, it isn’t her gefilte fish, which by all rights should have won a Nobel Prize for Food. 

The dish that I have been able to replicate is her exquisite “Lox, Onions & Eggs.” This her one dish that I can truly say that thirds were never enough! I would watch her make it in our kitchen at 25 Alston Ave, the smell of the chopped onions frying in a healthy layer of melted butter was intoxicating.  Once the onions had moved from translucent to just turning brown, more butter was added, then a good portion of chopped lox would be added to the pan.  Once the lox turned from deep orange/red to a light pink, it was time to add some quantity of beaten eggs (and probably a bit more butter).  And the she would set to business scrambling up this superb assemblage!  I adored the finished product, and would scarf down two helpings in a blink of an eye, and would ready my plate for a touch more!  I could actually hear my arteries congealing!

When Mommie Soph passed I didn’t think too much of this cherished dish, until one day I saw it on Ratner’s menu in NYC!  Well, I assumed that if anyone could make a good version of Lox, Onions & Eggs it would be a highly regarded Jewish establishment like Ratner’s on Second Ave. Wrong!  It was a crushing disappointment!  They “shortcutted” it!  The Lox and Onions (raw, sliced, not diced!) were simply scrambled up with the eggs at the same time! 

And after that sad episode I decided that I was going to take-on making the dish á la Mommie Soph!  And be in mind that this was in the day when my efforts at cooking were restricted to flipping burgers & steaks on the grill.  Yes, I knew how critical it was to cook the onions and lox in advance of adding the eggs in order to successfully emulate the dish that Mommie Soph lovingly provided.  Although I didn’t know the difference between a teaspoon and a tablespoon, I am confident that I created a dish that did Mommie Soph proud! 

n.b.  Over the years I have scaled back use of butter without negatively impacting the end result.  Even without the heavy handed use of butter, I doubt that anyone would mistake this dish as “full on healthy”.  So be it!

This entry was posted in The Small Pictures. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *