Matzo Therapy

Call it an inspiration.  Sandy was leafing thru the pages of Scientific American when she happened on an article about Emanuel Rifkin, a Salt Lake City CPA, who decided to build a geodesic dome in the Utah dessert out of matzo. One can only guess that Rifikin (one of nine Jews who live in Utah) ordered more matzo than he needed for his Passover table.  Hoping that he was going to make a financial windfall, he had been pleased when he had cornered the market in matzo for all the mountain states, and at the close of the Passover he peered out his kitchen window to pallets of matzo boxes stacked up on his driveway. What to do with the extra boxes of matzo?  After all, one only uses one or two boxes of the stuff during the eight day holiday.  That is, unless you live in Brooklyn and are feeding the entire congregation of B’nai Tsuris… then you might use up to nine boxes.  But as already noted, the Rifkins lived in Salt Lake City!

Perhaps it was to be expected when Rachel (his wife of 17 years) suggested that Manny find lodgings elsewhere.  And that is when the ambitious Rifikin, armed with R. Buckminster Fuller’s blueprint for a geodesic dome, loaded up his matzo into a ten-wheeler and headed for the desert.  And to the amazement of all, build it he did!  Further, he saw that when he was in the finished dome he felt an unmistakable calm as he rested from his labors.  Surrounded by walls of matzo and in the desert air his skin tightened and he felt rejuvenated.  The salutary effect was real.  It wasn’t long before word spread about this curious structure in the middle of “nowhere”. The newsprint media covered it. Reported to be better than a salt cave, health nerds began traveling to his doorstep, and paid a high fee to spend two hours in his matzo dome.  The Hollywood glitterati soon began chartering flights to Salt Lake City. You get the idea.  Fortune follows the brave!

One can only imagine Manny Rifkin in the Utah desert sipping a chilled Mogen David and counting his Ben Franklin’s.  Who would have thought?  Matzo Therapy!

And now to Sandy.  She read this article when our pantry also had a modest surplus of matzo. We had purchased five boxes in advance of the Passover Holiday and had overshot our needs by 3.5 boxes. The words of the article danced in her head as she put the finishing touches on her latest coloring project.

This coloring “thing” has captured Sandy.  She sets up shop on the kitchen table.  Spreads out a stout collection of pens, pencils, markers and fine brushes in front of her… selects an elaborate drawing and spends a couple of hours coloring it in. With music playing in the background (or the news on the kitchen TV), she is the picture of contentment. Coloring therapy?  And the finished products are really good. 

Maybe it was just a natural progression of thinking… the article in Scientific American, a pantry with too much matzo, and maybe a touch of “matzo induced constipation”?  Sort of simple, really.  Sandy decided to make use of the unwanted matzo, and she put her coloring talents to creating matzo art!  You could say it was a new form of matzo therapy!

This first piece of matzo art was made while listening to Pachelbel’s Canon in D.

Serenity, Before the Onset of an Intestinal Blockage

Next, Sandy applied herself to capturing the likeness of the first Hebrew Super Hero: Constipator the Great.  The roots of this legendary figure are indeed linked to the biblical Exodus story.  We have learned that the Hebrews had to flee Egypt in a hurry before Pharaoh reversed his decision to let Moses’ people go. “They could not tarry”.  The bread was not allowed to properly rise, and so the Hebrews had to settle to making a flat “bread” – matzo!  However, a considerable excess of this “bread” had to be left behind.  And it was said that the Egyptian host spent days gorging out on matzo and the charioteers, archers & foot soldiers suffered from serious bloating, twisted bowel syndrome and painful rectal itch.  Pharaoh’s army was completely incapacitated before leaving the gates of Egypt.  No need for Moses to split the Red Sea for the escaping Hebrews.  That was clearly an unnecessary literary device exploited by Cecil B. DeMille.  The savior for the Hebrews was Matzo Man!

Drawn while listening to the Rolling Stones’ “Can’t You Hear Me Knocking.”

Matzo Man

Sandy followed Matzo Man with a piece of three dimensional art.  On a plain matzo board she placed four slices of American cheese, which she said represented the Four Horseman of the Apocalypse.  Then she applied a quantity of scrambled eggs, which she said represented the Turmoil caused by the Rangers giving up the tying goal with 17 seconds left in the game. And a sprinkle of Tabasco Sauce, which she said represented a mistake.  N.b. The bacon-like objects I photo-shopped in.

Made while listening to Al Roker’s weather report.

Eggs on Matzo

After breakfast Sandy returned to two dimensional art.  I asked her to knock-off my favorite Georges Seurat canvas.  She agreed; but first she wanted to find a way to overcome the handicap of coloring on matzo’s irregular surface.  Particularly the perforations.  The problem was solved by mixing matzo meal and anchovy paste and applying it to the matzo board. Voilà! An ideal surface to use! The results are uncanny!  Her best piece of art to date!

 In the manner of, A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte

How to follow up that superb rendition of Seurat?  First, let me say I don’t want to limit Sandy’s enthusiasm for her art.  But she may have over-reached her skill set.  But she is set on giving this a “go.”  We have just taken a long term lease on a vacant aircraft hangar at Oxford Airport, and Sandy has decided to make a 1:2 scale model of a Blue Whale out of matzo.  Costco has agreed to sell us 30,000 boxes of their surplus matzo.  We were able to get a very good price, even better than their usual low price.  The trucks arrive next week, the sound system will be installed by mid-May, coloring will begin in June and construction will follow in November.  Stay tuned.

Balaenoptera Musculus

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One Dish Beef Stroganoff & 2015 Domaine Fondrèche Nature Rouge

The “one dish” aspect of this recipe caught my attention.  I have used another more traditional Stroganoff recipe, and greatly enjoyed the results.  But? One dish?  Less to clean-up?  OK, let’s give this a shot.  A couple of notes about the appearance of this recipe.  First, typically the noodles are prepared separately from the meat, then the noodles are drained, plated on a platter and then the meat is spooned over the noodles.  In this recipe the noodles are cooked with the meat, and have an alreadyblended appearance when plated.  Next, the meat is cut into thin strips, rather than into cubes.  Similarly to stir-frying steak in an Asian recipe, it does speed the cooking process.

For wine I wanted to choose a 2015 from France or Italy.  We are going to be beating the drum for the next 2-3 years about the excellence of Western Europe’s broad success in the 2015 Vintage (the best since 2010).  The modest wines are the first to reach our shores. And theSouthern Rhône that I have selected provides an introduction to the greatness of the vintage as we wait for the Châteauneufs that will release later. Other wines that would complement this dish… Loire Valley Reds from Chinon or Saumur-Champigney.  A Ripasso Valpolicella would also be a good choice here.  All these wines offer good fruit, balance & a cleansing level of finishing acidity that make them a natural for “comfort food” dishes like Stroganoff.

Domaine de Fondrèche Nature Rouge ‘15 (Côtes du Ventoux, Southern Rhône) 
Checking in as a mix of 30% each of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, with the balance Cinsault. The 2015 Côtes du Ventoux Nature is a plump, fruity, rounded and sexy wine that has lots of dark fruit and herbal aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a great finish. I wouldn’t push the aging curve, but it’s a superb wine to drink over the coming year or two. 90pts Wine Advocate

ONE-DISH BEEF STROGANOFF

Ingredients
6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin
½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth
3 Blue cheese stuffed olives
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1lb boneless strip steak, sliced into thin strips
1 medium onion chopped
3 cloves garlic minced
1 tsp dried parsley flakes
1¾ cups low sodium beef stock
6 oz sliced mushrooms
3 cups uncooked medium egg noodles
½ cup sour cream
Chopped fresh parsley

Directions

1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size.  Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming.  Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!

2. Heat oil in a 12” nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.  Add beef and cook until well browned, stirring often.  Add onion, garlic and dried parsley and cook until the onion is tender-crisp.

3. Stir the stock and mushrooms in the skillet and bring to a boil.  Stir in the noodles.  Reduce heat to low & cover.  Cook for 10 minutes or until the noodles are tender.

4. Stir in sour cream in the skillet and cook until the mixture is hot and bubbling.  Serve with fresh chopped parsley.

n.b. The next time I make this I will cut back the noodles to 2 cups.  Although I prefer broadernoodles with Stroganoff, for this recipe stick with medium-sized.

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Welsh Rabbit/Welsh Rarebit & Laculle Brut Premier

Can someone tire of Eggs Benedict on New Year’s morning?  The brief answer is “no”.  The recipe that follows is not meant to replace in our hearts the supreme brunch dish.  On the other hand, Eggs Benedict is a particularly fussy dish to make. Consider the careful assemblage necessary in making the hollandaise sauce, and the tricky nature of poaching eggs – plus or minus 10 seconds and the yolk is all wrong! The anxiety! Runny hollandaise and overdone eggs!  And given the speed at which we can dispatch what is served to us, was all that time and work invested in producing it really worth the trouble?  The brief answer is “yes”.  Especially if someone else is making it… and cleaning up afterwards! To quote the Prince of Denmark, “Aye, there’s the rub.”

Which brings us to the dish below, Welsh Rabbit, which takes all of 25 minutes (max) from when you switch on the lights in the kitchen to when you’re happily downing forkfuls of cheesy toast (and washing it down with a flute of chilled Brut Champagne)! But before we continue, a word about the name of the dish itself.  The origin of the name is obscure, it first appeared in print in 1725 as Welsh Rabbit, and then in 1785 it was altered to Welsh Rarebit, perhaps because the dish didn’t contain a whisker of rabbit in it! In his 1926 edition of the Dictionary of Modern English Usage, the grammarian H.W. Fowler states a forthright view: “Welsh Rabbit is amusing and right. Welsh Rarebit is stupid and wrong.” So there you are, and I’m glad that we’ve put that thorny issue to rest.

The prep of Welsh Rabbit is indeed simple and the cooking simpler yet.  Whisk in hand, stirring the sauce over a low flame even allows for a sip or two of Champagne before sitting down at the table!  A great way to launch a New Year if you ask me.  But Welsh Rabbit is more than a great brunch dish, it’s also good for a light Sunday supper.  And famously, this was a White House late night snack favorite of FDR.

And now to the Champagne, and what Thomas Jefferson referred to as “old reliable”.  Reliable because there isn’t an occasion or food where Champagne fails to add to your enjoyment.  Shame that for too many folks Champagne is only put into use on “major” celebration days, and then only for a ceremonial toast.  Champagne is brilliant wine to open for just about any food!  And the Champagne recommended here is produced by a small grower —  a récoltant who has the option of selling his grapes to the big concerns (like Veuve Clicquot) or in good harvest years reserving some fruit and creating wine under his or her own label.  And if you lived in Paris you would probably drive to Champagne a couple of times a year (about 90 minutes away), stop into your grower of choice, buy a couple of cases of your favorite and laugh all the way back to Paris, “Let the stupid Americans drink all the Veuve Clicquot they want!”

Laculle Brut Premier (Champagne, France)
The Laculle family have been making Champagne in the small village of Chervey, nestled in the Cotes des Bar for the past 3 centuries. The family’s winemaking activity dates back to 1789. From this year of the French Revolution onwards, each generation has followed in the family’s wine-making footsteps. Patrick took over the family business in 1980 and married Agnes Moutard in 1986. Patrick uses exclusively his own grapes of his small, 10ha vineyard. 100% Pinot Noir.  Soft floral scent, bright on the palate, clean finish with a small persistent bubble.

 WELSH RABBIT/WELSH RAREBIT

Ingredients
6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin
½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth
3 olives stuffed with blue cheese
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp all-purpose flour
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp kosher salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ cup porter beer
¾ cup heavy cream
6 ounces shredded cheddar cheese (about 1½ cups)
2 drops Tabasco
4 slices of toasted rye bread

 Directions

1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size.  Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming.  Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!

2. In a medium sauce pan over low heat, melt butter and whisk in the flour.  Cook, whisking constantly for 2 minutes or so, being careful not to brown the flour.

3. Whisk in mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt & pepper until smooth.

4. Add beer and whisk to combine. Pour in cream and whisk until well combined and smooth.

5. Gradually add cheese, stirring constantly, until cheese melts and sauce is smooth (about 4 minutes).  Add Tabasco.  Spoon sauce over rye toast.

n.b.  I used Sierra Nevada Pale Ale in place of the Porter.  Sierra Nevada actually makes a Porter. I’m sure it would be good to use, I just have a reflex reaction against a beer that is darker than motor oil. Although this recipe calls for 4 slices of rye toast, the quantity of cheese sauce can comfortably cover two more slices of toast. And… (a drum roll would be appropriate) are you a fan of grilled cheese with bacon and tomato? (crash the cymbal) Put a slice of tomato and a strip or two of crisp bacon on your rye toast before applying the blanket of cheese sauce! 

P.S. I made up the Thomas Jefferson quote… although he may in fact have at one time or another referred to Champagne as “old reliable” – after all he lived in France for years!

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Muffin-tin Mini-Quiches & Konrad Sauvignon Blanc ’14

I was looking for a “tasty utilitarian something.” Something that could work for breakfast/brunch, or as an appetizer during cocktails, or as a first course in a fancy-shmancy dinner. I picked up this recipe for Muffin-tin Mini Quiches from Eating Well and while it lacks a pie crust, it doesn’t lack flavor. And it certainly comes in ideal serving portions for use in all of the serving opportunities noted above. Further, you can make it ahead of time (like I did). After the quiches have cooled and removed from the muffin tin, wrap the quiches individually in plastic and refrigerate for up to 3 days (or freeze for up to 1 month). To reheat from fridge, remove plastic, wrap in paper towel and microwave on high for 30 to 60 seconds. Tonight the quiches will be served before our standing rib roast.

My “go-to” white is Sauvignon Blanc. And for tonight I’ve selected a wine from New Zealand. Loire Valley would also have been a good choice… Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé and Quincy all produce excellent Sauvingon Blancs. Other Loire whites would be great choices, too: Muscadet or Dry Vouvray. Pinot Gris from Alsace or Pinot Blanc from the Alto-Adige are other wines that I love both as aperitifs and to go with the quiches.

Konrad Sauvignon Blanc ’14 (Marlborough, NZ)

A brilliant, pale straw green colour. This is a ripe style of Sauvignon showing elements of passion fruit, mango, melon and stone fruit, as well as subtle yoghurty complexity from a whisker of barrel fermentation. The palate if soft, full and dry taking richness from the excellent fruit weight achieved in the vineyard. Classic Marlborough Sauvignon flavours of tropical fruits and underlaid by a vein of exotic fruits reminiscent of guava and lychee. The extract of the wine fills the mouth while acidity keeps the palate alive through to a clean, dry finish.

Muffin-tin Mini-Quiches

Ingredients

6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin
½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1½ cups finely diced red-skinned potatoes
1 cup diced red onion
Salt
8 large eggs
1 cup shredded smoked gruyere cheese
½ cup low-fat milk
½ tsp ground pepper
1½ cups chopped fresh baby spinach

Directions

  1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size. Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming. Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!
  2. Preheat oven to 325°F.  Coat a 12-cup muffin tin with cooking spray.
  3. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add potatoes, onion and ¼ tsp salt and cook, stirring ’til the potatoes are just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool 5 minutes.
  4. Whisk eggs, cheese, milk, pepper, ½ tsp of salt in a large bowl. Stir in spinach and the potato mixture. Divide quiche mixture among the prepared muffin cups.
  5. Bake until firm to the touch, about 25 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before removing from the tin.

n.b.  The smoked gruyere fills in a layer of flavor that could accomplished with diced bacon or ham. And next go ’round I might add ham anyway!

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