July Celebration in February—w/Les Légendes R Bordeaux Blanc ’21 and Hillick & Hobbs Dry Riesling ’19

The sea air was calling to me. It was time to visit Lynn & Alan (Sister & Brother-in-Law) at their roomy home that fronted Long Island Sound in Milford.  In times past we would enjoy a New England clam bake on their back deck on a summer day.  Drinking Sauvignon Blanc, eating lobsters &c, telling stories & laughing, all the while listening to the water rolling against the sea wall.   It was time to bring the festivities of the summer deck to the interior of their wonderful home.  It’s February.  Sandy and I provisioned out and packed up the necessities, including my treasured double lobster pot, and headed south to the Milford hamlet of Woodmont.  

A clambake ain’t all that hard (which is why I am good at it).  My Brother Paul would tell me stories about digging a deep pit in the beach sand.  Building a wood fire, throwing in good sized rocks/stones onto the wood pyre & keeping that fire going.  Adding wood as required to get the rocks white hot with heat.  Next dump in a good quantity of seaweed on the bright hot rocks, then throw in the essentials of the feast on to the steaming bed of seaweed: lobsters, many of them.  Several ears of corn, still in the husks,  added as a side.  Cover the pit with a tarp and let the steam cook the contents.  

Engage in an exhilarating game of scrabble on a spread out beach blanket ’til the bake is done (kidding).

I selected two wines to open with the enfolding repast.  We started with a Bordeaux Blanc that I had first tasted a week ago when I presented the Wines of Lafite in a tasting.  The Les Légendes R Bordeaux ’21 was the perfect apéritif to sip with a selection of olives & cheeses as I got busy prepping the contents of the double lobster pot.  Then the “show piece” was Paul Hobbs’ Dry Riesling.  Hillick & Hobbs Dry Riesling ’19 is the inaugural release of Hobbs’ new venture in New York State’s Finger Lakes region. 

Domaines des Barons Rothschild Les Légendes R Bordeaux Blanc ’21 (Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux)
Les Légendes Bordeaux Blanc comes from the Entre-deux-Mers region. The vineyard rests on the hillsides located between the two rivers South East of Bordeaux: the Dordogne and the Garonne. The 2021 Bordeaux Blanc is a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Sémillon. Pale gold color. The nose is fine and elegant, mixing aromas of white flowers (acacia) with mineral notes. The palate is harmonious, fresh and balanced.

Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling ’19 (Seneca Lake, NY)
Situated on the southeastern banks of Seneca Lake, the property was acquired in 2013 and started being converted to riesling one year later. The vineyards are planted to high density and one of the first in the area to run up and down slope similar to those of the Mosel region. Such an expressive nose of white peaches, nectarines, mandarin oranges, white flowers and vanilla. Grows with each swirl of the glass. Intensely mineral and racy palate that feels lighter than it is, because it’s so precise and vibrant, the lime and mineral freshness making the long. dry finish mouthwatering. The first release from David and Paul Hobbs’ Riesling project in the Finger Lakes. 94pts James Suckling

JIM WINSTON’S SIGNATURE CLAMBAKE

Ingredients
6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin
½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth
3 olives stuffed with blue cheese
4 Lobsters
4 Skinless boneless chicken thighs
8 Small potatoes
4 Ears of corn (preferably with husks on); cut into halves
1lb Smoked sausage cut into 4 pieces
24 Little neck clams
5 bottles/cans of lager beer
A stout bunch of fresh dill
Lemon wedges
Melted butter

Directions
1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size.  Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming.  Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!

2. Empty the beers into the base part of a lobster pot. Place the fresh dill in the bottom of the upper part of the pot.  Put heat to medium-high.

3. Once the beer reaches a low boil, turn heat down to low-medium. Place potatoes into the pot. After 10 minutes add the chicken to the pot for an additional 5 minutes.

4. Adjust the heat to ensure that a steady steam is getting thru to the upper part of the lobster pot.  Add the lobsters to the pot.

5. Cook the lobsters for 25-30 minutes. Check 20 minutes in. The lobsters should be fully red. If not, add 10 minutes to cook time.

6. Add the sausages for 5 minutes

7. Adjust the heat to ensure that a steady steam is getting thru to the upper part of the lobster pot.  Put the clams into cheesecloth and tie to close into a sack.  Add to the pot.

8. When clams open it’s time to tie on the ol’ feed bag!

Recommended serving sequence: 1. Clams & Sausages; 2. Lobster & Corn; 3. Chicken & Potatoes.  OR, conversely throw caution to the wind & put everything on to a big platter and proceed to independent selection scarfing down.

n.b. Soft-shell “steamer” clams are the preferred clam type for a true “New England” Clam Bake. I have been using Little Necks because they’re easier to source and they are less fussy to consume.

James R. Winston, YS

Posted in Sandy's Table | Leave a comment

Birthday Dinner @ California Grill, February 2, 2023

Seven years ago I celebrated my birthday at the California Grill in Walt Disney World.  Little did I realize then that it would become a tradition that I have enjoyed every year since (save the pandemic year).  I love the location on the top floor of the Contemporary Resort.  And a table by the window affords a splendid view of the fireworks display above Cinderella’s Castle in the Magic Kingdom.

More importantly, Ray the bartender knows how to assemble a superb Tanqueray Martini, and one of the few practitioners of the mixing arts that I can rely on to produce a Martini nearly as good as one of my own making—hardly faint praise. The special menu and the general buzz in the room justly complete a worthy experience. But… What happens if Ray is not there? And, what happens if Tanqueray is no longer a gin option! To quote the great W.C. Fields, “Oh death, where is thy sting?”

True. On Feb 2, 2023 Ray was off premises tending to knee replacement rehab, and astoundingly, Disney has decided to shed Tanqueray from their gin selection. Adapt we must. Plan B: Bombay Sapphire.

The menu was prix fixe for three courses @89 fishnagels. But for an additional 39 greenbacks there would be three wines to pair with each course, OR for 69 byzantiums you could enjoy a deluxe pairing of wines to each course. After scanning the selections recommended, I was all in for the deluxe indulgence.

The Cali Grill’s claim to fame is its extensive California/West Coast wine list. To give you an idea: for the Pumpkin and Squash Bisque there was Kistler ‘Les Nostières’ Chardonnay. The entrée of Florida Black Grouper was paired with Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve from Willamette, Oregon.  For the Grand Marnier Crème Brûlée dessert course: Far Niente’s excellent Dolce ‘Late Harvest.’ On to dinner.

Martini consumed, it was time for my first course: Braised Beef Short Rib Wontons (doenjang miso-cola-onion sauce, radish, crispy garlic-chili oil, pickled lotus root) with BV Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Georges de Latour ’18. The wontons were tender, richly flavored and the sauce possessed a healthy “kick” that made the dish sing. The wine was sinfully beautiful. The Wine Advocate review, nails it: “Deep garnet-purple in color, it prances out of the glass with flamboyant scents of blackberry preserves, wild blueberries and crème de cassis, followed by hints of cigar box, Chinese five-spice and pencil shavings with a waft of menthol.”

My main course was Fire-Roasted Venison (fondant sweet potatoes, parsnip purée, winter vegetables, sour cranberry). The loin chop of venison was mind-blowingly great. Served perfectly at medium rare.  Tender, could be cut with a plastic knife. The venison melted in your mouth. The wine served was Duckhorn Merlot Three Palms Vyd ’19. Stupendous pairing. Fragrant, supple textured on palate and flavors that danced in concert with the flavors and textures of the venison (although my “old world” preferences would have enjoyed a Brunello or a Côte de Nuits Burgundy here, too!).

NY Cheesecake and Crème Brûlée are my dessert Achilles’ Heel, yet I chose perhaps the least interesting of the dessert options on the menu: Chef’s Selection of California Cheeses (featuring three unique cheeses and house-made accompaniments). Honestly, if the pairing had been Twinkies and Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, that also would have been the call. Make no mistake, the cheeses were good… but when I did wine dinners years ago, the cheese course is where I placed the best red wine to be tasted. 

After the cheese course a dessert course would be paired with a “true” dessert wine—a Sauternes, a Late Harvest Riesling, or the Dolce that was offered on the menu. But Ruinart? I would have been happy to eschew my Bombay Martini, and the two great reds that I enjoyed, to have that Blanc de Blancs from beginning to end. Ruinart is to Blanc de Blancs what Billecart-Salmon is to Brut Rosé. Each are reference point Champagnes. And great Champagne is the “liquid string of pearls” of wine: it goes with everything!

The dinner w/wine: perfect & off-the charts fun. Service, the best (Walter, our server, is worth asking for should you dine there).

The wines are currently available. Let me know if there is an interest.

BV Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Georges de Latour ’18 (Napa, CA) The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Georges de Latour is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. Deep garnet-purple in color, it prances out of the glass with flamboyant scents of blackberry preserves, wild blueberries and crème de cassis, followed by hints of cigar box, Chinese five-spice and pencil shavings with a waft of menthol. Medium- to full-bodied, the palate has a solid structure of firm grainy tannins and seamless freshness supporting the muscular black fruit, finishing long and earthy. 96+pts Wine Advocate

Duckhorn Merlot Three Palms Vyd ’19 (Napa, CA) A blend of 92% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc. I like the savory nose here, with notes of coffee, spiced plum, overturned earth and bark. Full-bodied with fine, silky tannins. Expressive, but focused, with really clean and clear dark fruit blending nicely with ground spice and grilled herbs. Totally delicious. This will age very nicely. 95pts James Suckling

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs (Champagne, France) 100% Chardonnay. A fruity yet firm blanc de blancs with some brioche, cooked-apple and pear aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and flavorful. Fruity finish. Always a good bottle. Drink now. 92pts James Suckling

James R. Winston, YS

Posted in Wine | Leave a comment

Rice Pudding with Golden Spoons

My Uncle Saul died in September of 1982. He had just celebrated his 70th Birthday three days before, and he was laid to rest in a small Woodbury cemetery near the home that Saul and Aunt Meggie had owned on Carthage Rd.  When Meggie retired from teaching a few years before, the house was sold and they moved permanently to their summer place in Chatham. Permanently?  Hold that thought, I will return to it a bit later.

The day of his burial was the type of mid-September day you dream about.  Sunny, the sky blue, the trees beginning to turn… and if anything, maybe the mid-day sun a tad too warm. Meggie and Saul loved the sun, and she had said on that sad day of farewell that it was impossible not to smile on such a sunny day. 

After Saul’s death Meggie rarely had occasion to return to Woodbury.  Or maybe she stayed away because she wanted one less reminder of the vacancy in her life.  If she did go back… perhaps at an invitation of an old Woodbury friend, she tried to have the visit coincide with Saul’s birthday.

In one of the many conversations we shared over the years when I went to visit her on the Cape, we enjoyed a bottle of Sancerre on one sunny spring day, and I can remember Meggie saying: “people think cemeteries are for dead people… but they are not.  Cemeteries are for the living.  It is a place for us. A place to focus on continuing the connection we feel to people we love, and will always love.” 

She looked up from her glass and continued, “Jimmy… I know that you don’t have to visit the cemetery to have that sense of connection, any more than you have to visit the Grand Canyon to know of its beauty.  But seeing it – the Canyon’s mental image comes to life, or visiting the grave side and placing a small stone in memory, can enhance our sense of connection.”

And yes, I could clearly picture Meggie visiting Saul’s place of rest, and placing a small stone on the footstone of Saul’s gravesite, as is the custom among Jews, and being caressed by that sense of connection.

In 2002 Meggie called me and asked if I would drive her up to Woodbury for a visit.  She said it was Saul’s Birthday and she was feeling a powerful tug in her heart.  I agreed.

When we reached Woodbury she asked me to pull into LaBonne’s IGA before heading over to the cemetery… “I want to pick up a couple of things – I won’t be but a minute.”  

Small bag in hand, we proceeded on to Saul.  On the drive she felt the air coming in thru the window, then glanced skyward and said, “One of my favorite books is Styron’s Sophie’s Choice… and in it there is a line that I just love.” {I knew this, she had shared this with me once before}… “Nathan has just given Sophie a sip of 1934 Château Margaux… and she says to him: ‘Mmm. You know, when you… when you live a good life… like a saint… and then you die, that must be what they make you to drink in paradise.’”

I parked the car near the cemetery’s pebbled walkway, we each made a selection of a small stone and zig-zagged thru the silent footstones & headstones the 20 yards to Saul’s permanent address.  Meggie placed her stone on Saul’s footstone, looked skyward again, remained motionless for several moments, eyes welled… she sighed, and looked at me and smiled, “You know Jimmy, before we were married Saul and I lived in Paris – this was before World War II.  I was studying dance and Saul was playing the clarinet anywhere he could. {I knew all this}  Oh, the stories.  The people we met.  We were young, we were poor and we were in love & we were in Paris!  And one night I can remember telling him that I was so happy that this had to be heaven!  And he just laughed and laughed and told me that I was mistaken!  In heaven you eat rice pudding with golden spoons.” 

I placed my stone next to Meggie’s and looked up to her.  The warmth of the recollection glowed on her face. 

She touched the footstone and then the headstone, felt the carved letters cut into its face, “Well, Saul… sorry to say no Margaux ’34… but I have something even better.”  And with this Meggie took out 3 cups of rice pudding from the brown bag, she handed me one, placed one down for Saulon the densely carpeted green grass before his stone; and she kept one for herself.  Then she opened her pocket book and took out three small golden spoons and passed one to me, kept one and placed one next to Saul’s cup.

 “Happy Birthday Saul! I love you always!” She smiled at me, “It’s a sunny day Jimmy! Dig in!” And then she threw me a precious wink, “And you may have to help Saul finish his cup of pudding”.

Postscript — I wrote this piece in September 2015.  It never made it into the Ash Creek Papers: Summer of Jim site.  It just got lost. And now it’s found. The inspiration for this piece came from Betsy Moss Driebeek, someone who I have known for decades.  She had posted a family photo on FB showing her family gathered about a grave site (I think this is right).  It was their tradition to honor a memory of a twin child, Gregory, that she had lost a mere week after his birth.   One twin, Julian, has survived (and is doing quite well).

The family tradition (Betsy, husband Jim, Julian and younger brother Kyle) to honor Gregory’s memory continues to this day, 24+years later.  And part of this tradition is bringing golden spoons, and other symbolic connections to graveside.  Betsy’s Jim shared a belief he inherited from his grandmother… in heaven, people have a grand time eating rice pudding with golden spoons.

It was a profoundly touching sentiment for me. I loved the image. I wrote the piece.

jrw: 01/03/23

Posted in Meggie & Saul | Leave a comment

Always Remember Whose Grandson You Are

It was just one of those arbitrary feeds I got on Facebook.  But this one stopped me cold. It was an advert for a gift that would be a grandparent type of gift.  A simple key chain, with a “dog tag” message attached, “I can’t promise I’ll be here for the rest of your life.  But I can promise that I’ll love you for the rest of mine.”  There were more words. But it’s the concluding sentence… “Always remember whose grandson you are.”  For you who know Disney, it’s very “Lion-Kingesque”. Or, even without the Lion King reference,  maybe you are just blessed to be descended from Sophie Fleischner.

I am drawn to other images, far apart from Mommie Soph making  potato latkes and lighting Sabbath candles with my Mother on Friday nights.

It’s from the film “Saving Private Ryan.”  The aged Ryan with his family returns to the resting place near the battle grounds in France, to the graveside of the Captain who saved his life…

“My family is with me today. They wanted to come with me. To be honest with you, I wasn’t sure how I’d feel coming back here. Every day I think about what you said to me that day on the bridge [earn this]. I tried to live my life the best that I could. I hope that was enough. I hope that, at least in your eyes, I’ve earned what all of you have done for me… Tell me I have led a good life… Tell me I’m a good man.”

Posted in Life | Leave a comment