You could say that I was planning the afternoon for a year (actually it was 53 weeks). A year ago we hosted a wine tasting of White Grand Cru Burgundies… and it was one of the most successful tastings we have ever put on. It was doubly rewarding because our guests were, by and large, big red aficionados… and by evening’s end they stood in awe of the wines that had been presented. The lesson had been a simple one: truly great wines know no “colour”.
Organizing a flight of White Grand Crus is by far our most difficult undertaking of the year. So little Grand Cru is produced. 2% of the total vines planted in Burgundy are classified as Grand Cru. Of that total, less than 2% is White. Five of the six Grand Cru White vineyards are nestled between the villages of Chassagne and Puligny. Together they could fit inside of the Red Grand Cru Clos du Vougeot vineyard.
In the course of our business there is a “give and take” between importers, distributors and merchants. Favors done, and favors due. To put on the Grand Cru Tasting this past Saturday, our owner, John Caplan had to call in on all past favors due, and went into debt on future favors owed.
Yes… I was looking forward to this Tasting. As much for the folks attending (one couple traveling from Arkansas) as to the wines themselves. When John had put the finishing touches to the flight we both knew something… you would be hard pressed to find a Tasting its equal in America.
We began the afternoon with William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ ’05. Unfortunately, too many Americans hear “Chablis” and they think of Paul Masson in a jug. The California wine industry has stolen a name to add “saleability” to their product — although it has nothing to do with the original product other than they are both liquids. I love Chablis. Its unique version of Chardonnay is a product of the distinct clay and limestone soil that gives Chablis its mineral character. The sub-soil is built on a shelf of crushed pre-historic oyster shells… no wonder pairing crisp Chablis with oysters is considered one of the classic food and wine combinations. Grand Cru Chablis ages beautifully, too and the Fevre was stunning… a great way to launch the afternoon.
There is no Grand Cru Meursault… but there are great wines produced there… certainly wines that would merit inclusion in any Tasting covering the best from Burgundy. Our choice was Domaine Francois & Antoine Jobard Mersault 1er Cru ‘Poruzots’ ’04. Jobard wines have the reputation of taking years to open, and this wine certainly ran true to form. This was the most “closed” of the wines on the day. Behind the cloak of youth, you got the glimpse of a beautifully made wine, rich flavors touched with the characteristic minerality of Meursault… although I didn’t detect the hint of smoke that I love from this region. The wine needs at least 2 to 3 years for it to begin showing its best. Classically styled, it commands “Grand Cru” pricing.
The wine that followed was the only repeat from the Tasting a year ago: Domaine de la Vougerie Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 1er Cru ’02. We put this wine into the flight a year ago for its novelty. A tiny parcel of the Grand Cru Red Clos de Vougeot vineyard had been planted to Chardonnay to make a white wine, although white did not gain the Grand Cru status of its “red brother”. We returned the wine to our flight this year, in part because we could still access it, and in part to see how the wine had progressed. The wine did not disappoint. The aroma was lush with ripe fruit well balanced by oak. A smooth palate followed and lead to a beautiful finish. For those who had tasted the wine last year, this was a true treat… it shows how well Burgundies improve when we practice a little patience.
We tasted two Cortons next, side by side. Domaine Bonneau du Martray Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne ’03 and Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Domaine du Pavillon ’05. The Bonneau du Martray had the advantage of an open bouquet that was breathtaking… it covered the nose of the younger Bichot. But it was the Bichot that took honors on palate and finish. And particularly on finish. The wine combined the best of elegance, blended flavors and a persistent finish that continued to caress the senses. The Bichot is headed for stardom.
Our next stops were in “Montrachet land.” We would be trying 4 of the 5 vineyards… from one point to the next, they cover a mere half mile. First up: Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru ’03. Beautiful hue and aromatics to match, this wine had a “sinfully” lush texture that filled the palate. Yet it’s mark was carrying off the layers of flavor, silky feel while still exhibiting balance and restraint. This is what makes Burgundy, Burgundy… and reduces other white wine to post script status.
The vineyard of Criots-Batard-Montrachet looks like a “sliver.” It is by far the smallest of the Grand Cru vineyards… a postage stamp really. Our entry was Blain-Gagnard Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru ’03. The wine received high points for its complexity… tropical fruit, minerality and kissed with a touch of petroleum. This was a wine to taste. And put down. Taste again, and put down. Scratch out some notes on a notepad. Taste again. Cross out what you had written and begin again. This is a wine that rewards the careful. Beautiful layering. It seduces rather than dominates. It is why some folks say never trust your first taste of Burgundy.
We missed tasting a Bienvenue-Bartard-Montrachet; but offered instead a side by side tasting of Blain-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru ’03 and Louis Latour Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru ’05. I will confess… before tasting I was biased against the Louis Latour. In a region renown for tiny holdings, Latour is an “elephant”. Latour possesses 71 acres in Grand Cru Vineyards. No other producer comes close to that. And worse than that, the Latour’s also have a “commercial side”… making a ton of every day wine… wines that never match the prestige of their name. Taking nothing away from the Blain-Gagnard, which was outstanding, the Louis Latour was a spectacular wine. Maybe it was the vintage? Regardless, each taste confirmed that this was a liquid thoroughbred. The other wines tasted were great… this was better. More flavour. More balance. More power wrapped in elegance. More length. This was a wine to be reckoned with, and the final wine in the flight would be stretched to surpass it.
Stretched that is… unless it’s Le Montrachet. But I am used to “upstarts”. Last year the Batard-Montrachet put Le Montrachet in its shadow. That was last year; but this year Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru ’04 reigned supreme. The ultimate wine. There are a hand full of wines that “show up” every time… an outright “win” or a “near miss”… Ch. Latour, Ch. D’Yquem, Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, come to mind. Montrachet fits into that company. This Montrachet was purely sublime. It was so excellent… you didn’t even notice it. Yes, the Latour Batard was truly great, but the Jadot Montrachet tasted of superior breeding and pedigree. Its excellence was its routine, its nature. Je suis le Montrachet! The wine had perfect balance and pitch, strength wrapped in subtlety, complexity of flavours layering on the palate and haunting length… Attributes that we easily accept in our special reds; but that will catch us by surprise when we experience it in whites.
This afternoon we all agreed that the Montrachet was the most special of wines, and worthy of its lofty price tag.
As is my custom… I like to rank my favorites. The Judge at Westminster has to do the same thing. After all… all the dogs in the final show ring are Champions, yet the Judge has to select the Best of Show from among their number. It’s going out on the line… but not as far as you think… can you really make a mistake picking a Champion from a group of Champions?
Reflecting on Saturday’s tasting, I guess I feel the same… how big of a mistake can I make? Here goes: Jadot Montrachet, Latour Batard-Montrachet… and I’m going to notch the Fevre Chablis over the Bichon Corton-Charlemagne.
Truth be told… each of the wines were champions… and when the room quieted on Saturday, I do believe I could hear the angels weeping for joy.