Toad in the Hole w/ 2022 Clos St. Antonin Côtes du Rhône

England might not take first place for unappealing names for food, but here is a small sampling of names that are certainly worthy of consideration: Spotted Dick, Clotted Cream, Mushy Peas, Bangers & Mash, and for our consideration today: Toad in the Hole.   {Before we get too far, Toad in the Hole on this side of the pond usually refers to an egg cooked in a hole cut out of a piece of bread.} Essentially this recipe is a brilliant combination of two of my favorite foods: Yorkshire Pudding and Bangers (sausages with an English accent). However, I have tweaked the original recipe and substituted Dutch Baby for Yorkshire Pudding.  Dutch Baby can either be prepared sweet or savory, and savory is the call here.  Simply put, add garlic and fresh rosemary to Yorkshire pudding and voilâ… Dutch Baby! An improved version of the English staple. Most recipes for Toad in the Hole also include an onion gravy as a side.  And while I do think that the gravy does well with Bangers and Mash, I think it hurts the aesthetics for this dish.

 My choice for wine is Clos St. Antonin Côtes du Rhône ’22. Since 2019 I have used previous vintages of this wine in 16 tastings. It is no secret how much I love this wine.  Why would it be a go-to red in so many tastings?  Because it is my “Swiss Army Knife” red wine.  It’s enjoyable on its own merit, and it goes with every comfort food dish imaginable. Cue Toad in the Hole!! Other wines that would work? Alsatian Pinot Gris, Mosel Riesling and Greco di Tufo from Campania.

Clos St. Antonin Côtes du Rhône ’22 (Southern Rhône, France)
Clos Saint Antonin is a 15ha estate located outside the town of Jonquières within the Côtes-du-Rhône Village of Plan de Dieu.  Clos Saint Antonin was purchased by the Sabon family, owners of Domaine de la Janasse, in 2014. While the whole family is involved with its farming and winemaking, Isabelle Sabon is heading up this new project – one supplemented by some of her family’s vineyards in Le Crau for the Clos Saint Antonin Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  The Côtes-du-Rhône from Clos Saint Antonin comes from the younger vines on the property between 30-50 years old. The 2022 is a sturdy Côtes du Rhône, with a lot of stuffing. A stylish core of cherry and apple wood rests upon smoldering iron and graphite, adding to the firm structure. The finish is long and firm, with notes of warm spices and black tea. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. 90pts Wine Spectator

TOAD IN THE HOLE 

Ingredients

6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin
½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth
3 Blue cheese stuffed olives
3 eggs
¾ Cup flour
¾ Cup milk
1 tsp Kosher Salt
6 thinly sliced garlic cloves
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
6 tbsp butter
4 Dinner sized English bangers (or sausages of your choice)

Directions

1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size.  Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming.  Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!
2. Set oven to 425°
3. Whisk together 3 eggs, flour, milk & kosher salt. Let sit for 5 minutes
4. In cast iron skillet on blazing high, melt butter, sauté garlic and chopped rosemary. About 1 minute, ‘til fragrant. Add the bangers to the skillet.
5. Add egg batter to skillet around the bangers.
6. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until puffed and golden
7. Thank me, when you get the chance.  Personal checks, also welcomed!

n.b. I used Weisswursts for my sausages which I pre-browned on my Weber Grill.  I sourced the sausages from Alpine Wurst & Meat House.  They have local availability in Shop Rite, but the selection is limited. They offer a “combo pack” 1 each of Bratwurst, Krainerwurst, Weisswurst & Bauenwurst which I think would be a great play.  And the next time I think I will cut the sausages into 1” pieces and scatter them in the skillet… sorta like pepperoni on pizza.   Easier to slice and plate.  

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Good Ship Reuben James

Have you heard of a ship called the good Reuben James
Manned by hard fighting men both of honor and fame?
She flew the Stars and Stripes of the land of the free
But tonight she’s in her grave on the bottom of the sea

I am reading a book Annapolis Goes to War by Craig Symonds.  He is a professor of History at Annapolis, and I came upon him thru my Teaching Company lecture series.  He is a fabulous lecturer.  And his presentation extends to the printed page.  This is my second book that he has penned, and when I read each sentence I hear his voice… the way he would intone a phrase {SIDE BAR:  the greatest compliment I get from my writing is when someone says, “I hear your voice. I hear you telling the story}.

This book follows the trail of specific members of the Class of 1940 as they travel the steps from plebe on entry to Annapolis, thru to graduation, thru to assignment and into maelstrom of war when some would lose their lives.

My reading today brought me to the incident when the American Destroyer Reuben James (DD- 245) was sunk by a German U-Boat in October 1941 in advance of our declaration of war.  Reuben James.  And it brought me to a memory of Paul.

I have less memory of you, Lynn, when I was 7.  But at that age, as Paul would begin at Union, I was shifted from Mommie Soph’s bedroom to Paul’s.  And I was in contact with parts of Paul’s interests that littered our room, and closet.  Free weights.  A fencing mask and foil (or was it an epée?) and bongo drums.

And then there was a day when Paul returned from Union and he had a guitar.  Or maybe he already had one and I never knew it.  But there he was sitting on his bed and strumming a Kingston Trio tune, and softly singing…

Tell me what were their names, tell me what were their names
Did you have a friend on the good Reuben James?
What were their names, tell me, what were their names?
Did you have a friend on the good Reuben James

To my siblings, Lynn, you have the superior singing voice.  Nor can I attest to the guitar skill of my big brother.  Nor can I recall the emotion that he felt as he strummed and quietly put words with the melody.

I have no intention of reading special meaning into why he picked up the tune.  Maybe because it was a simple cord change?  Or maybe it did have meaning?   On reflection, for me, it was simple: Paul was home for Union.  And I was happy for that.

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Thinking of You Paul

It’s Sunday May 18, 2025.  I look outside my window to our deck, and the small horse farm that lays behind the tree line, and the low stone wall that separates our modest green space from the corral.  It’s a magnificent morning with a stiff breeze moving green leaves that have emerged from their infancy.  63° Temp. Sun clear.  Blue sky and cirrus clouds.  Could you find a better day to be on Race Brook’s golf course?

And yes, I am drawn to memories of playing golf with my Dad… and my big brother Paul. Paul.

Long before I picked up a 7 iron, Paul already had a golf resume.  As a high schooler he played golf on Hopkin’s Golf team.  Competed on Yale’s challenging course.  But his arc of improvement took a detour as he spent a summer cycling in Europe with his classmate Alan Chasnoff.  Forgive me for compressing, or misstating the details here. 

But this was apparent when I began walking along as Dad and Paul competed in tournaments at Race Brook, Paul was erratic. Which played into Dad’s and Paul’s partnership on the course.  Dad was steady to cover Paul’s miserable showing on a hole.  And then Paul on the next hole could win outright.  It’s called playing in and out golf. And it was so why they did so well in tournaments.

And then I was of an age that I could play along with Dad and Paul.  And these were some of the most memorable days of my life. 

I think high in treasure for me was when Paul and I played alone on Race Brook’s “inside 9”.  Before WWII Race Brook sported two 18s separated by Race Brook Rd.  But then some of the across the Road 18 went back to nature, and Race Brook’s layout was modified to a main course 18 on both sides of the Road, and then a 9 on just this side of the Road.

For the most part on Sunday mornings Paul and I played the 9 twice.  And now, old enough, after a round I could enjoy lunch with Paul in Race Brook’s excellent men’s grill room.  We would tuck into the best cheeseburgers & fries accompanied with either Raz Limes, or Black Cows. We would recall our best shots, not be too bothered by the botched t-shots.

I never became proficient in golf.  Never touched the level that Paul played at Hopkins.  Never the consistency that Dad had.  But I was fortunate for an early lesson that Dad gave me.  It was on a Sunday when it was just Dad on me on the Inside 9.  I had just horribly sliced a drive off of the tee and I was so pissed that I tossed my driver on the ground.  He said to me, “pick up your club, and if you ever do that again you will never play golf with me again.”  Then he added, “If you want to correct the slice, you have to put in time on the practice tee and I will pay for you to have lessons with Joe (Joe Sullivan, our golf pro) and he will correct that slice.”

I didn’t pick up that offer.  I wasn’t looking to become a pro.  Early on I saw golf as a once/twice a week thing.  Maybe.  But Dad’s warning was a key to learning to manage my expectations on the course.

I was able to relish in a perfectly lofted wedge over the sand trap at the 14th and not be totally undone by an errant tee shot into the woods on the 9th.

And was there a better backdrop to sharing the joy of a random Sunday than the beauty of a golf course?  Well, I love a stretch of sand and waters softly turning on to the shore.  True. But today I am drawn to mornings with Paul – with a cheeseburger and a black cow at hand – slightly sweaty and thinking shots well played.

As much as I enjoyed playing golf, I have zero interest in picking up the clubs again.  What would be the point?  It was really about being with Dad and Paul.  Paul, and cheeseburgers and raz limes. How can you improve on that?

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Just Reported…

The Union of Reform Judaism, formerly known as Union of American Hebrew Congregations, has just announced modifications for the observance of Passover.

The length of the observance has been shortened to 4 days from the previous 8 days.

Cheerios, peanut butter, sweet corn & shellfish (not limited to clams, oysters, lobsters, crab & shrimp) are exempt from prohibition. To wit, clam bakes are good to go.

Pork spare ribs are OK after the first night if consumed with Chinese food.

2 questions have been added, “What’s wrong with legumes?” And “Is Matzah induced constipation fake news?”

Finally, children searching for the “afikoman” is to be replaced by practicing the violin and studying for their college boards. 

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