The Ash Creek Papers

Kalimotxo [KAL-ee-MOH-cho] is a traditional drink from the Basque in Spain.  It is an equal blend of dry red wine and cola, and it was thought to be a great way to camouflage a “rustic” quality red!  That case notwithstanding, the concoction is an excellent base for braising beef short ribs.  I served the short ribs over my favorite pasta, pappardelle.  Choosing a red wine is a natural for the dish… although Ribera del Duero would be consistent with the braising base, I think a Tuscan red would be great, as would something from the Southern Rhône.  I opted for an incredible Blanc de Blancs from one of the small “Growers” in Champagne.  My point?  Something that is overlooked by most American palates, Champagne is one of the finest “food wines” produced.

You can buy Champagne from the familiar houses {you know their names} who produce only 10% of their own fruit and have to source grapes from any (irrespective of quality) vineyard in the appellation to “feed the beast”, or you can pick up a terrific hand crafted Champagne where the grower controls “vine to wine” the Champagne that goes into your glass!

Varnier-Fannière Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV (Champagne, France)
93pts Wine Advocate
Denis Varnier is only the third generation of winemakers at this estate, but grape growing in the Fannière family (Denis’ mother’s side of the family) dates back to 1860. Although the estate is small at just over 4 hectares, Varnier-Fannière’s holdings are impressive, averaging 45 years in age. Denis’ holdings are in three grand cru villages in the northern Côte des Blancs. He has as much land in Cramant as he does in Avize, with a smaller holding in the village of Oiry. His wines are precise and terroir expressive, in the direction of Avize “graphite”, while also being delicious and pleasurable.

Wine Advocate: The NV Brut Grand Cru opens with an intriguing bouquet laced with chalk, gunpowder, white flowers and graphite. A wiry, vibrant Champagne, the Brut Grand Cru walks the tightrope of ripeness, acidity and minerality with notable grace and tons of personality. Hints of lemon, green pear and white peach flesh out as the wine opens up over time. This is a gorgeous and totally intriguing wine. The Brut Grand Cru is 100% Chardonnay, 2009 and 2008 vintages from Cramant, Avize and Oger.

Kalmotxo Braised Short Ribs

Ingredients
6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin
½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth
3 Blue Cheese stuffed Olives
A goodly amount of ice
¼ Cup Olive Oil
4lbs Short Ribs seasoned with salt & pepper
1¼ cups diced onion
¾ cup each diced carrots & celery
3 tbsp minced garlic
2 tbsp each tomato paste & smoked sweet paprika
1 tbsp anchovy paste
1 Bay Leaf¼ Cup Dry Sherry
2 Cups each dry red wine & cola
1 Zest of Orange
2 tsp cornstarch
2 tsp olive oil
1 tbsp Sherry Vinegar
2 tsp minced fresh thyme
½ minced orange zest

Directions

1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size.  Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming.  Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!

2. Preheat oven to 300°

3. Heat ¼ cup oil in large Dutch oven over medium high heat.  Add ribs and brown all sides, 8-10 minutes, then transfer to a plate and set aside. Reduce to medium low.

4. Sweat onion, carrot and celery in the drippings until softened, 6-7 minutes.  Add garlic, paprika, tomato paste, anchovy paste and bay leaf; sweat 2 minutes more.

5. Deglaze pot with sherry; cook until almost evaporated, 5 minutes.

6. Stir wine, cola and zest of one orange into pot.  Return ribs to the pot, increase heat to high, bring liquid to a boil, then cover with a tight-fitting lid.  Transfer pot to the oven

7. Braise ribs until fork-tender, about 3½ hours, turning the ribs every hour.  Remove pot from oven.  Transfer ribs to a plate.  Cover ribs to keep warm

8. Strain braising liquid from pot, discarding solids.  Skim and discard fat from surface liquid.  Transfer liquid to skillet and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

9. Whisk together cornstarch and 2 tsp of oil, then whisk into liquid, cook two minutes.

10. Off heat, stir vinegar, thyme and minced zest into sauce.  Place ribs in sauce to reheat, five minutes

 n.b.  I couldn’t  resist trying some Kalimotxo.  Half red wine and Coca Cola? Much better that I was expecting… think Sangria without floating fruit!

“’Oh, yes, yes, in there,’ said Toad impatiently. ‘I’d have said anything in there. You’re so eloquent, dear Badger, and so moving, and so convincing, and put all your points so frightfully well–you can do what you like with me in there, and you know it. But I’ve been searching my mind since, and going over things in it, and I find that I’m not a bit sorry or repentant really, so it’s no earthly good saying I am; now, is it?’”

Two things before we begin.  The recipe described herein is indeed not “Toad Hall Stew” but rather “Frogmore Stew”… a wonderful dish whose origins trace to South Carolina low-country.  The variations of the recipe are many.  But essentially it is a one pot dish based on shrimp, sausage and corn on the cob. Once again I have selected a version for its ease of assembly and its superb tastiness.

Next… as the above quotation bears witness, I am a big fan of Wind in the Willows. There is something that has always drawn me to the character of Mr. Toad… a gentleman of high birth, living in a grand home, enjoying a life rich in leisure pursuits, dressing impeccably, a gracious host, full of bombast and knowing how to set a fine table.

“There he got out the luncheon-basket and packed a simple meal, in which, remembering the stranger’s origin and preferences, he took care to include a yard of long French bread, a sausage out of which the garlic sang, some cheese which lay down and cried, and a long-necked straw-covered flask wherein lay bottled sunshine shed and garnered on far Southern slopes.”

So forgive me for deceiving you as to the name of the recipe.  But of this I have no doubt… it is a dish worthy of Mr. Toad.  This would be a repast that could grace the back patio of Toad Hall.  I can see Toad extending his hospitality to Rat, Mole and Badger… the friends enjoying the informality of the fare, watching the setting sun kiss the river bank, talking of adventure and sipping a chilled Rosé.

The wine choices are several. Crisp to fuller whites would work. Alsatian Pinot Blanc or Riesling come to mind. Albariño from Spain would be a great choice, and if you are set on Chardonnay, select a more mineral driven version such as Chablis or Pouilly-Fuissé. A lighter red would also be fun… a slightly chilled Beaujolais from one of the Cru’s (Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie & etc.) would be the ticket.  Rosés for sure.  My favorites come from Provence; but for Toad Hall Stew I am choosing a fuller style of Rosé of Tempranillo from Rioja.

Bodegas Olarra Reciente Rosé ’12 (Rioja, Spain)

100% Tempranillo. Cold soak macerated prior to allowing natural yeasts to begin converting sugar to alcohol, ensures the fresh elegance of fruit is retained in the finished wine.  A classic saignée method employed by the producers in Provence for their Rosé’s. Crisp and fresh, this salmon colored wine is delicious offering up rose petals, hints of orange rind, raspberry and strawberry.  Clear, dry finish with a bright level of acidity making the wine a perfect accompaniment to anything served from your barbecue grill.  Or, excellent as a refreshing apéritif on a sunny afternoon!

 

Toad Hall Stew

Ingredients

6 ounces of Tanqueray Gin
½ ounce of Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth
A goodly amount of ice
4 quarts cold water
¼ cup Old Bay seasoning
1 Tbs. kosher salt, plus more, to taste
4 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 yellow onion, diced
1 garlic head, halved crosswise
2½ lbs. small red potatoes
4 ears of corn, shucked, each cut into 4 pieces
2 lbs. smoked sausage, cut into 1½-inch slices
2 lbs. medium shrimp, deveined, in the shell

Directions

1. Put gin and vermouth into a glass pitcher, fill with ice, stir vigorously while incanting, “You who know all, thank you for providing us juniper and all the other obscure ingredients responsible for creating this sacred liquid!” Strain into a pre-frozen Martini glass of admirable size.  Skewer the olives on one of those tacky cocktail swords, place in glass. Immediately begin consuming.  Now you can begin the food prep, and the cooking!
2. In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, combine the water, OldBay seasoning, the 1 Tbs. salt, celery, onion, garlic and potatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced, 10 to 20 minutes.
3. Add the corn and sausage to the pot and simmer until the corn is tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and simmer until opaque, 3 to 4 minutes. Taste the broth and adjust the seasonings with salt.

n.b. I used a Vidalia onion.  I switched to jumbo shrimp (sorry, medium shrimp aren’t worth the effort). I also don’t devein shrimp (just a nuisance step that I find totally without merit).

The world has held great Heroes,
As history books have showed;
But never a name to go down to fame
Compared with that of Toad!

The clever men at Oxford
Know all that there is to be knowed.
But they none of them know one half as much
As intelligent Mr. Toad!