A Simple Question

“Jimbo, where do Republicans come from?”

The question was posed by Max, age five.  We were on our way to the High Temple of Dinosaur Fossils in New Haven: Yale’s Peabody Museum.  Sometimes there are long breaks between questions and answers in our travels.

I was hoping for a dinosaur related question… like, “If a Tyrannosaurus Rex and a Triceratops got into a fight — who would win?”  I guess I should be thankful.  At least he didn’t ask, “Where do babies come from?”  But knowing Chris and Beth (Max’s parents), he probably already knows where babies come from.  Something that took me thirty years to figure out.”

“Where do Republicans come from?  Did you ask?”

“Yes, Jimbo.”

What brought this up?  Republicans?  Pretty impressive.  This kid has a great vocabulary.  That’s Chris and Beth.  Max already has a better vocabulary than half the adults I know. *UCH*  Cornell Winston (no relation) for my Ninth Grade English!  We had twenty vocab words to learn each weekend… spell correctly and use in a sentence.  I can remember it like yesterday.  I hated it.  “Plethora.”  Who the hell can use it in a sentence?  Or what syllable to stress when saying it?  I should ask Max if he knows what it means; but he would probably correct my pronunciation…

I think I heard someone using “plethora” in a sentence on Face the Nation or Meet the Press.  Some “expert” referred to a “plethora” of social and financial woes facing this country.  He could have used “myriad” or “shit load” or a “quagmire of nightmarish complexity”.  But no.  We got “plethora”.  I bet he pronounced it wrong!  Mr. Smarty-Pants-in-a-coat-and-tie-on-Sunday-morning!

Gag me with a spoon.

You know, if Max asks me where babies come from, I’m going to tell him “Costco Aisle 3, behind the display of synthetic Native American sweat lodges!”

“Do you mean where do they live?  Or how did they get their start?”

I think my question caught him off balance.  I could have simply replied that it was the Political Party of reform founded in the mid-nineteenth century… that Abraham Lincoln was its “spiritual father”… and that Lincoln is probably turning in his grave over how far his reform minded Party has plummeted.

“Jimbo… No.  Where do they come from?  Are there any in Hingham?”

Maybe Chris and/or Beth are closet Republicans and he is thinking of “outing” them?  Or maybe he’s the closet Republican and he is embarrassed by his parents’ liberal views.  Maybe he is just trolling for kindred souls in Hingham?

“OH… I thought that you meant — do they come from the Triassic, Jurassic or the Cretaceous?”

Look… we’re going to the Peabody, right?  Let’s get the kid focused!

“Jimbo… can we go to the Gift Shop first?”

Back on track!  Still, this Republican stuff shouldn’t be ignored.  Maybe his Pre-K program had a “civics” section?  When I was his age the reigning Republican was Dwight Eisenhower.  Back then I didn’t think of him as a Republican.  To me he was a bald guy who smiled a lot and played golf in a shirt with a little alligator embroidered on it.  It looked like being President was a pretty good job.

If Max asks me where dinosaurs come from that will be easy… eggs!  Or eggs from California!

“Gift shop?  Sure.  But the Peabody Museum Gift Shop has a ten minute rule.  And its strictly enforced.  If you haven’t selected something in ten minutes they make you leave… and they keep your money.”

Republicans must come from eggs.  Eggs or pods… like the kind from Invasions of the Body Snatchers.  Hah!  And I know where it begins!  At Mason’s Fresh Farm Market on Route 25 in Monroe, CT.  The fresh produce is merely camouflage for their true purpose.  They grow plants in terra cotta pots.  Look to the left on the far side of their house… you can see the staging areas.  Two different levels covering about a half a football field.  The young plants are in smaller pots on level one, then they are transferred to bigger pots on level two prior to distribution.  Each pot is individually hooked up to a network of tubes.  For water? Fertilizer?  Or something more dastardly?  Yeah, they’re hooked up like those terrifying plant-like seed pods in Invasion of the Body Snatchers!  What a film.  Dana Wynter expressing fear, “I don’t want to live in a world without love or grief or beauty”. Sure, Kevin McCarthy running down the road trying in vain to warn people.  “They’re here already!  You’re next!” His message being ignored. Well, what do you expect from California’s citizenry? 

“What’s your favorite dinosaur Max?  Mine is the Triceratops!”

“Jimbo… ‘tri’ means three.”

This kid is too smart.  If he starts reciting Thomas Aquinas in Latin, I’m pulling over, giving him the keys and walking home.

Yes,yes.  I’m sure of if now.  It’s Mason’s.  That’s where it starts.  I drive by that place first thing in the morning before sun rise.  Sometimes I see a light coming from the basement of that creepy house that sits between their produce stand and their “growing fields.” I bet that’s where they produce the special cultures and yeasts for making Republicans.  Then the raw materials are dried and stored in grain sacks marked “greed”, “intolerance” and “patriotism on the sleeve” and then they put it into their water supply.

“Jimbo… are we almost there yet?”

“Yep… we’re in New Haven.”

And you think that geranium or chrysanthemum in a terra cotta pot is innocent… don’t you?  These plants are carefully endowed with all the necessities for making true Republicans… simple house plants capable of taking over body, mind and soul!  Then these insidious plants are distributed to an unaware public.  Transported to places like Greenwich, then to Andover, then to Yale, Skull & Bones, then to Texas… and then to the White House!!!

“They’re here already!  You’re next!”

“Who’s here already Jimbo?  The dinosaurs?”

“No, Max.  And if you want to find Republicans… go to Costco, Aisle 3.  There is a plethora of them there… just behind the geranium display.”

“Is plethora like a dinosaur nest?”

“Not really.  And remember… just ten minutes in the gift shop.”

Hey! He didn’t correct my pronunciation. Haa-hoo!

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40 Years Ago

Where were you 40 years ago?  I watched our lunar landing from the train station of a Czech  border town.  I had been kicked off a night train going from Berlin to Vienna because I did not have a “transit visa.”  The border guards marveled at our space accomplishments and congratulated me. They extended a hand, no hard feelings. I think that they were happy that we showed it to the “Russki’s”. And for thirty-five dollars American, I was provided a “temporary visa” and allowed to re-board the next train

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Chardonnay

America loves Chardonnay.  We drink more of it than of any other wine.  We grow it in virtually every State that is planted to vinifera vines.  We produce more of it than they do in France!  In the words of Jancis Robinson, Britain’s Master of Wine, “In Chardonnay is one of the happiest combinations: the grower loves to grow it; the winemaker loves to make it; and we all love to drink it.” Some of us love Chardonnay’s that are aged in oak.  Some love Chardonnay’s that are not aged in oak.  Some love Chardonnay’s that are rich and full, some love Chardonnay’s that are clean and fresh, some love Chardonnay’s that have balance and finesse.  Get the picture?

Great Chardonnay is consumed with the passion and reverence reserved for enjoying the finest red wines of the world. Great Chardonnay is not simply “white wine”… it is great wine that happens to be white.  It is the white wine that can satisfy the red wine lovers’ craving for complexity in a wine.

The finest Chardonnay’s come from the Grand Cru Cotes de Beaune Vineyards in Burgundy, France.  Only 2% of Burgundy’s vineyards are rated as Grand Cru, and of that number, less than 5% make white wine. In a mere half square mile between the Villages of Chassagne and Puligny are the historic vineyards of Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet and Criots-Batard Montrachet.  Further to the North we find Corton Charlemagne.

Each of these wines are noted for the “layering” of flavours… green apple and tropical fruit touched with a nuttiness.  Flavours that are balanced beautifully with soft oak and a minerality. These precious wines exhibit incredible strength and length, and yet retain a remarkable degree of finesse.  They are also the most age worthy dry white wines made.

 

Outside of Beaune, Chardonnay receives its most unique expression in the Appellation of Chablis. The Chardonnay vines in this northernmost region of Burgundy are planted on the Kimmeridge Shelf, an outcropping of crushed pre-historic oyster shells that originates in Southern England, extends under the Channel to Chablis.  The unique sub-soil gives Chablis its characteristic flinty quality, and makes their wines a perfect accompaniment to the briny taste of fresh shucked oysters and clams.

The prices for Grand Cru Burgundy, be it from the Beaune or from Chablis, are as expensive as the red wines from the Beaune or the Cotes de Nuits. However, for those who look for incredible value in White Burgundy, one only has to travel a little to the south to Maconnais and Chalonnais.  The wines produced here are the true “insider” wines of Burgundy: Pouilly-Fuisse, Rully, Saint-Veran and Montagny make fabulous Chardonnays for a fraction of the price of the wines coming from the Beaune.

Yes, Chardonnay’s “mother tongue” is French; but its world wide success is based on the phenomenal wines that are produced in the other great wine producing regions of the world.  The heartiness of the vine has allowed it to be planted in nearly every corner of the planet.  It adapts well to all soil types and micro-climates… its only shortcoming is its vulnerability to spring frosts.

Before leaving Europe for a spin around the world, take a dip below the Austrian Alps to Italy’s Alto-Adige to enjoy wines that could easily be tasted against the best from Burgundy. Sometimes combined with other varietals, the Chardonnays and Chardonnay blends from this region hit all the essential notes. Balance, flavour, length and excellent aging potential.

For the whirlwind “Chardonnay World Tour”, the first stop is in America. Unquestionably, Napa, California has blazed the trail in the United States.  1976 turned out to be a watershed year for California wine.  Mike Grgich, then winemaker for Napa’s Chateau Montalena, took his Chardonnay to Paris for a blind tasting against French Burgundies, and to the surprise of the world’s wine community, was awarded top prize by a group of stunned French judges.  The “victory” put Mike Grgich on the map, it put Napa on the map, and it put “our” Chardonnays on the map.

The Russian River in Sonoma and the soft hills of Santa Barbara County have also been producing Chardonnays of considerable depth and roundness of flavour.  A combination of hot days, countered by a precipitous drop in temperature at night, has enabled grape clusters to slowly accumulate their flavours over an extended ripening period. The resulting Chardonnays are the match for Chardonnays produced anywhere in the world.

Chardonnay’s success is also seen in the Southern Hemisphere.  In South Africa, the first region of the world to get European vines, the Chardonnays of Stellenbosch possess lush tropical notes and boldness of the “new world” and a restraint of the “old world”. Sipping a beautifully hued South African Chardonnay, consumers can enjoy the “best of the both worlds” in the same glass.

The high dessert climate of Mendoza, Argentina produces excellent Chardonnays, proving that there is more to this prestigious locale than Malbec.  Susana Balbo and Nicolas Catena each produce Chardonnays of amazing quality that is on par with their world renown reds.

And sometimes lost in a sea of Shiraz and Shiraz blends from South Eastern Australia are the mind blowing Chardonnays that come from the Margaret River in Western Australia. Exhibiting the strength and elegance that we associate with the best from Burgundy, these wines are a true treasure… if you can find them.

Whether you enjoy the massive robust oaked-styled Chardonnays, or the clean pristine versions that see no time in oak, or the unique mineral driven Chablis’ or the exceptional wines that offer fine balance between fruit, oak and mineral… this much is abundantly clear – if you love wine, somewhere you will find the Chardonnay that is for you.

And if you reach the Pearly Gates, and an angel hands you a glass of Batard-Montrachet while your paper work is being processed… just smile.  You will know where you are.

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Wines of the Southern Rhone

Viticulture first appeared in the Rhone Valley around 600 BC; but it wasn’t until the 13th Century when the Papal See moved from Rome to Avignon that production of wine significantly expanded. In contrast to the Northern Rhone which is characterized by a continental climate with its harsh winters an infamous mistral winds, the South enjoys a Mediterranean climate with milder winters and hot summers. And unlike the North, where Syrah is the only planted red varietal, the varied terrains and micro-climates of the South provide a welcome home a wide assortment of both red and white grape varietals.  Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Marsanne and Syrah are some of the varietals that fill the nooks and crannies of vineyards in the South.

There are four quality levels of wine within the Rhone. At the simplest level is Cotes du Rhone.  Grapes can be sourced from any of the 171 communes located in the entire wine region. Both reds and whites are produced and offer great value for every day drinking.

Cotes du Rhone Villages is the next designation.  Grapes from 95 communes are permitted to carry this higher classification and the wines produced here have a higher minimum standard of alcohol level.  Accordingly, the wines have greater strength and definition.

In 1967 a new level of Cotes du Rhone Villages was created to separate individual Villages of superior quality from the Villages AOC.  Wines produced from 17 Villages are allowed to add their Village name to their label.  Wines such as Chusclan and Laudun on the left bank of the Rhone, and Cairanne and Vinsobres on the right bank are Cotes du Rhone Villages of singular distinction.  These wines are enjoyed by savvy wine buyers who recognize the great “quality to price” ratio they represent.  Spend less than you would for a “Cru”; but without a significant drop off in quality.

The Cru wines of the Sothern Rhone are the finest wines produced in the region.  Their names are associated with the best red wines of France (although small amounts of terrific white wine is also made). Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Lirac, Rasteau and Vacqueyras are appellations of highest reputation and in great vintages the wines produced have great aging potential.

Of the Southern Rhone Cru wines, by far the most famous is Chateauneuf du Pape.  Within the appellation there are 13 approved grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Picpoul, Terret Noir, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarese, Picardan, Cinsault, Clairette, Rousanne and Bourboulenc. Each Estate has its “recipe” based on the most appropriate varietals within their holdings, and in any given year the final blend is a reflection of the success in the vineyard. Clos des Pape is a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre and with smaller amounts of Syrah, Muscardin, Vaccarese and Counoise.

Aside from the 2002 Vintage, which was a wash out in the entire appellation, the last 10 Vintages of Clos des Papes has earned unparalleled critical reviews in Wine Advocate: 1998: 90pts, 1999: 94pts, 2000: 95pts, 2001: 95pts, 2002: 88pts, 2003: 97pts, 2004: 95pts, 2006: 98pts, 2007: 98-100pts.

Success in Chateauneuf du Pape goes well beyond the notoriety of a single producer.  Chateau de Beaucastel, Cuvee du Vatican, Le Vieux Donjon, Usseglio and Chateau Fortia just to name a few make wine at the highest level vintage in and vintage out.

Remarkably, the wines of the Southern Rhone remain in the shadow of both Bordeaux and Burgundy in prestige.  Which is why the wines are of such great value… whether it’s the everyday drinking wines of the Cotes du Rhones, the more premium styled wines of Vacqueyras or the cellar worthy Chateauneufs, each level of quality produces excellent wines.  Hands down, France offers no better bang for the buck.

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