The Ash Creek Papers

Sometime after 48 AD the Roman Legions made it to St. Emilion and established vineyards to produce wine.  It’s a thirsty business, conquering the world. From these humble beginnings along the Gironde estuary and the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, the history of the world’s greatest wine would be written… the wine we call Bordeaux.

It wouldn’t be until the 12^th Century before the wines of Bordeaux gained in exposure beyond its immediate region.  In 1152 when Henry Plantagnet, Duke of Normandy and two years later crowned King of England, took Eleanor of Aquitaine’s hand in marriage, Bordeaux and their vineyards became a territory of England.  Export of the wine the English called claret, would begin in earnest, and continue with only minor inconveniences like the 100 Years War to disrupt a robust trade.

If wars and acquisition coloured the story of Bordeaux, its history is carved in its land.  Bordeaux is close to the sea and threaded by rivers which act to moderate the climate.  A thick forest on the ocean side offers protection to the harsh salt winds. The stout bedrock is packed with minerals and yet the topsoil is quite poor; but perfectly suited for viticulture. Dionysus blessed this land.

The Rivers that cut thru Bordeaux establish rough boundaries where land, facings, proximity to the rivers all produce unique characteristics to the vineyards and wines that they would subsequently produce. Over time it became clear that the red varietals that were best matched to Bordeaux’s terroir were Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Each area, vineyard and wine estate would have its own “recipe” for the best mix.

It is a varied recipe indeed, although there are broad based similarities based on blend and location. 

On the “right bank” of the Dordogne are the Communes of St. Emilion, Pomerol and a host of “satellite” appellations. It is here that we find some of the most exclusive wines of Bordeaux: Ch. Petrus and Ch. Cheval Blanc. Merlot is the most important varietal on the right bank, with Petrus being made of 100% Merlot.

Between the Dordogne and Garonne is Bordeaux’ largest appellation: Entre-Deux-Mers which in main is planted to white varietals: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon. Muscadelle and Ugni Blanc. Along the fringe of the Garonne itself is Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux `where red wine is also produced and where some of the best value Bordeaux can be found.

The “left bank” has three important sub-divisions. Graves, sitting just south the City of Bordeaux along the Garonne, further south is Sauternes and the Medoc, north of the City, is located along the Gironde Estuary.  Sauternes and its satellite, Barsac produce Bordeaux’ renown dessert wine, while the vineyards of Graves and the Medoc are planted principally to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Graves, so named for the gravelly content of the soil, is home to Ch. Haut Brion, which owns the distinction of being Bordeaux’ first wine identified and sold by the name of the estate. In 1663 Samuel Pepys wrote in The Diarist having tasted a wine in the Royal Oak Tavern, which he then described as “a sort of French wine called Ho Bryen that hath a good and most particular taste I never met with”.

Although insignificant in the early days of Bordeaux trade, by the 18^th Century wines from the Medoc began to emerge as being among the best from Bordeaux. Already the Estates of Lafite, Latour and Margaux were recognized for producing wines of distinction. It was the Classification of 1855 established by a group of wine brokers, however, that identified the Medoc as the preeminent region of Bordeaux.  Sixty-one Estates were placed into Growths… from First thru Fifth, placement being a reflection of the price of specific wines fetched at auctions over the previous 100+ years.  Rated as First Growth, not surprisingly, Ch. Lafite, Ch. Latour, Ch. Margaux and Ch. Haut Brion (the only Estate not coming from the Medoc), whose excellent wines were the most desirable vintage after vintage, after vintage.

In 1953 Graves established it’s own Classification, and St. Emilion followed suit in 1955.  The wines of Pomerol remain unclassified, although it is generally agreed that both Ch. Petrus and Ch. Le Pin make First Growth quality, and indeed their wines, given their tiny production levels, usually sell at higher prices than any of the other First Growth wines.

Beneath the pinnicle of the “officially” Classified Estates three other levels of ranking were eventually created: Cru Exceptionnel, Cru Bourgeois Superieur and Cru Bourgeois. And indeed there are thousands of Bordeaux Estates that are not part of any classification or ranking.

Tradition is all well and good; but changes in ownership, changes in vineyards, changes in winemaking teams and their philosophies all have certainly had a telling effect on the quality of wine being produced at an Estate, and if the same standard of pricing were to be applied, the Classification of 1855 would have to be revised.  Not only would we see a shuffling of the order; but certain Estates that would fall off, and others that would have to be elevated.

Well… what does all this mean?  For all the fancy history, impressive buildings — some Chateaux are indeed castles, although most are not — and their poetic names, are the wines really that good? It’s safe to say that for someone who loves wine, there will always be a small place for Bordeaux in your cellar… even if you prefer, say Napa Cabs or Aussie Shiraz.

But that side steps the issue.  The fact remains that the rest of the winemaking world turns to Bordeaux for inspiration and comparison… and they do so for a reason.  The wines are that good. And as vine cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (and the other Bordeaux varietals) made their way around the planet to Napa, the Margaret River, Mendoza, Stellenbosch and Bolgheri, producers from those regions looked to do one thing… make the best wines possible, make wines that could compare to Bordeaux!

Is every wine from Bordeaux great?  Does every Bordeaux empty your wallet?  No and no.  Of the thousands of wines that find their way into the market, there will be wines that will disappoint, there will be wines perfect for every day enjoyment, there will be the hidden jewel that is surprisingly well priced for its superb quality, and there will be wines that are the finest wines made and that will stand any test of time.

Experiencing Bordeaux thru its wines is a magnificent journey.  It begins with opening a bottle.

We hear the distinctive pop and it signals the celebration about to begin.  Our eyes brighten as we watch the sparkling wine being slowly poured into a slender flute.  No other wine is as closely identified with those important occasions that add meaning and definition in our lives than Champagne… New Years, Birthdays, Anniversaries, Valentines Day & etc. At these key junctions during the year, Champagne makes a command performance

But there are far more reasons to enjoy Champagne and other sparkling wines than celebrating the major milestones in any given calendar year. For one, it is the most ideal accompaniment for any dish being served… and at any time of the day!  From eggs benedict in the morning, to a chilled calamari salad for lunch, as an aperitif before dinner, to chicken Kiev at dinner, to poached pears for dessert.  Clearly sparkling wine is our most flexible of wines… like pearls, it goes with everything.

Much credit for this wine is laid at the feet of the 17^th Century monk, Dom Perignon.  While not its “inventor”, he certainly is the person responsible for selecting the ideal grape varietals and creating the blending techniques that are still in use today.

Strictly speaking, only sparkling wine produced with grapes grown in the delimited Champagne zone is entitled to the name Champagne.  The hills and valleys of the Marne near the towns of Reims and Epernay are responsible for all the world’s Champagne. The chalk soils of Champagne not only gives their wine its unique character, it also provides the perfect home for aging these wines in the prodigious underground caves of the historic Champagne houses.

The art of Champagne lies in the blend.  Pinot Noir from vineyards in the North slope of the Montagne de Reims responsible for the “headiness” of the wine, Pinot Meunier from the Vallee de la Marne adds bouquet and roundness and Chardonnay from the East facing slopes of Epernay contributes finesse and delicacy.  The resulting wine can not be surpassed for its delightful freshness, nor for the sheer joy in its consumption.

And there is far more to sparkling wine than Champagne itself.  Different countries, different grapes; but made in the same method with the second fermentation in the bottle giving the wine its precious bubbles.  Germany has its Sekt, and Spain has its Cava; but the sparkling wine that is unmatched in its popularity falls to Italy’s Prosecco.  Both the name of the grape varietal used and the name of the wine, it can be made in a lightly bubbled frizzante style, or in a classic methode champenoise.  And in a country that boasts numerous regional cuisines and associated wines, Prosecco comes as close to being the “national beverage” of Italy as any.  It is safe to say that more Prosecco is consumed in Italy than still water in this country!

Prosecco is enjoyed at any time of the day, in any type of glass, cup or mug.  No formality here.  The softer fruit flavour of Prosecco, soft finish and more modest price, makes this wine a natural for gatherings.

So, “pop the cork”, be it tete du cuvee Champagne, a tasty Cava or a friendly Prosecco… and take a page from Italy, don’t save it for launching a battle ship, don’t reserve for the nine days a year when opening a bottle is de rigeur… after all – we live 365 days a year!  Why not celebrate living!