40 Years Ago

Where were you 40 years ago?  I watched our lunar landing from the train station of a Czech  border town.  I had been kicked off a night train going from Berlin to Vienna because I did not have a “transit visa.”  The border guards marveled at our space accomplishments and congratulated me. They extended a hand, no hard feelings. I think that they were happy that we showed it to the “Russki’s”. And for thirty-five dollars American, I was provided a “temporary visa” and allowed to re-board the next train

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Chardonnay

America loves Chardonnay.  We drink more of it than of any other wine.  We grow it in virtually every State that is planted to vinifera vines.  We produce more of it than they do in France!  In the words of Jancis Robinson, Britain’s Master of Wine, “In Chardonnay is one of the happiest combinations: the grower loves to grow it; the winemaker loves to make it; and we all love to drink it.” Some of us love Chardonnay’s that are aged in oak.  Some love Chardonnay’s that are not aged in oak.  Some love Chardonnay’s that are rich and full, some love Chardonnay’s that are clean and fresh, some love Chardonnay’s that have balance and finesse.  Get the picture?

Great Chardonnay is consumed with the passion and reverence reserved for enjoying the finest red wines of the world. Great Chardonnay is not simply “white wine”… it is great wine that happens to be white.  It is the white wine that can satisfy the red wine lovers’ craving for complexity in a wine.

The finest Chardonnay’s come from the Grand Cru Cotes de Beaune Vineyards in Burgundy, France.  Only 2% of Burgundy’s vineyards are rated as Grand Cru, and of that number, less than 5% make white wine. In a mere half square mile between the Villages of Chassagne and Puligny are the historic vineyards of Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet and Criots-Batard Montrachet.  Further to the North we find Corton Charlemagne.

Each of these wines are noted for the “layering” of flavours… green apple and tropical fruit touched with a nuttiness.  Flavours that are balanced beautifully with soft oak and a minerality. These precious wines exhibit incredible strength and length, and yet retain a remarkable degree of finesse.  They are also the most age worthy dry white wines made.

 

Outside of Beaune, Chardonnay receives its most unique expression in the Appellation of Chablis. The Chardonnay vines in this northernmost region of Burgundy are planted on the Kimmeridge Shelf, an outcropping of crushed pre-historic oyster shells that originates in Southern England, extends under the Channel to Chablis.  The unique sub-soil gives Chablis its characteristic flinty quality, and makes their wines a perfect accompaniment to the briny taste of fresh shucked oysters and clams.

The prices for Grand Cru Burgundy, be it from the Beaune or from Chablis, are as expensive as the red wines from the Beaune or the Cotes de Nuits. However, for those who look for incredible value in White Burgundy, one only has to travel a little to the south to Maconnais and Chalonnais.  The wines produced here are the true “insider” wines of Burgundy: Pouilly-Fuisse, Rully, Saint-Veran and Montagny make fabulous Chardonnays for a fraction of the price of the wines coming from the Beaune.

Yes, Chardonnay’s “mother tongue” is French; but its world wide success is based on the phenomenal wines that are produced in the other great wine producing regions of the world.  The heartiness of the vine has allowed it to be planted in nearly every corner of the planet.  It adapts well to all soil types and micro-climates… its only shortcoming is its vulnerability to spring frosts.

Before leaving Europe for a spin around the world, take a dip below the Austrian Alps to Italy’s Alto-Adige to enjoy wines that could easily be tasted against the best from Burgundy. Sometimes combined with other varietals, the Chardonnays and Chardonnay blends from this region hit all the essential notes. Balance, flavour, length and excellent aging potential.

For the whirlwind “Chardonnay World Tour”, the first stop is in America. Unquestionably, Napa, California has blazed the trail in the United States.  1976 turned out to be a watershed year for California wine.  Mike Grgich, then winemaker for Napa’s Chateau Montalena, took his Chardonnay to Paris for a blind tasting against French Burgundies, and to the surprise of the world’s wine community, was awarded top prize by a group of stunned French judges.  The “victory” put Mike Grgich on the map, it put Napa on the map, and it put “our” Chardonnays on the map.

The Russian River in Sonoma and the soft hills of Santa Barbara County have also been producing Chardonnays of considerable depth and roundness of flavour.  A combination of hot days, countered by a precipitous drop in temperature at night, has enabled grape clusters to slowly accumulate their flavours over an extended ripening period. The resulting Chardonnays are the match for Chardonnays produced anywhere in the world.

Chardonnay’s success is also seen in the Southern Hemisphere.  In South Africa, the first region of the world to get European vines, the Chardonnays of Stellenbosch possess lush tropical notes and boldness of the “new world” and a restraint of the “old world”. Sipping a beautifully hued South African Chardonnay, consumers can enjoy the “best of the both worlds” in the same glass.

The high dessert climate of Mendoza, Argentina produces excellent Chardonnays, proving that there is more to this prestigious locale than Malbec.  Susana Balbo and Nicolas Catena each produce Chardonnays of amazing quality that is on par with their world renown reds.

And sometimes lost in a sea of Shiraz and Shiraz blends from South Eastern Australia are the mind blowing Chardonnays that come from the Margaret River in Western Australia. Exhibiting the strength and elegance that we associate with the best from Burgundy, these wines are a true treasure… if you can find them.

Whether you enjoy the massive robust oaked-styled Chardonnays, or the clean pristine versions that see no time in oak, or the unique mineral driven Chablis’ or the exceptional wines that offer fine balance between fruit, oak and mineral… this much is abundantly clear – if you love wine, somewhere you will find the Chardonnay that is for you.

And if you reach the Pearly Gates, and an angel hands you a glass of Batard-Montrachet while your paper work is being processed… just smile.  You will know where you are.

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Wines of the Southern Rhone

Viticulture first appeared in the Rhone Valley around 600 BC; but it wasn’t until the 13th Century when the Papal See moved from Rome to Avignon that production of wine significantly expanded. In contrast to the Northern Rhone which is characterized by a continental climate with its harsh winters an infamous mistral winds, the South enjoys a Mediterranean climate with milder winters and hot summers. And unlike the North, where Syrah is the only planted red varietal, the varied terrains and micro-climates of the South provide a welcome home a wide assortment of both red and white grape varietals.  Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Marsanne and Syrah are some of the varietals that fill the nooks and crannies of vineyards in the South.

There are four quality levels of wine within the Rhone. At the simplest level is Cotes du Rhone.  Grapes can be sourced from any of the 171 communes located in the entire wine region. Both reds and whites are produced and offer great value for every day drinking.

Cotes du Rhone Villages is the next designation.  Grapes from 95 communes are permitted to carry this higher classification and the wines produced here have a higher minimum standard of alcohol level.  Accordingly, the wines have greater strength and definition.

In 1967 a new level of Cotes du Rhone Villages was created to separate individual Villages of superior quality from the Villages AOC.  Wines produced from 17 Villages are allowed to add their Village name to their label.  Wines such as Chusclan and Laudun on the left bank of the Rhone, and Cairanne and Vinsobres on the right bank are Cotes du Rhone Villages of singular distinction.  These wines are enjoyed by savvy wine buyers who recognize the great “quality to price” ratio they represent.  Spend less than you would for a “Cru”; but without a significant drop off in quality.

The Cru wines of the Sothern Rhone are the finest wines produced in the region.  Their names are associated with the best red wines of France (although small amounts of terrific white wine is also made). Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Lirac, Rasteau and Vacqueyras are appellations of highest reputation and in great vintages the wines produced have great aging potential.

Of the Southern Rhone Cru wines, by far the most famous is Chateauneuf du Pape.  Within the appellation there are 13 approved grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Picpoul, Terret Noir, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarese, Picardan, Cinsault, Clairette, Rousanne and Bourboulenc. Each Estate has its “recipe” based on the most appropriate varietals within their holdings, and in any given year the final blend is a reflection of the success in the vineyard. Clos des Pape is a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre and with smaller amounts of Syrah, Muscardin, Vaccarese and Counoise.

Aside from the 2002 Vintage, which was a wash out in the entire appellation, the last 10 Vintages of Clos des Papes has earned unparalleled critical reviews in Wine Advocate: 1998: 90pts, 1999: 94pts, 2000: 95pts, 2001: 95pts, 2002: 88pts, 2003: 97pts, 2004: 95pts, 2006: 98pts, 2007: 98-100pts.

Success in Chateauneuf du Pape goes well beyond the notoriety of a single producer.  Chateau de Beaucastel, Cuvee du Vatican, Le Vieux Donjon, Usseglio and Chateau Fortia just to name a few make wine at the highest level vintage in and vintage out.

Remarkably, the wines of the Southern Rhone remain in the shadow of both Bordeaux and Burgundy in prestige.  Which is why the wines are of such great value… whether it’s the everyday drinking wines of the Cotes du Rhones, the more premium styled wines of Vacqueyras or the cellar worthy Chateauneufs, each level of quality produces excellent wines.  Hands down, France offers no better bang for the buck.

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It Seemed Like A Good Idea At The Time

Sandy wasn’t keen on the idea at first.  I told her about the abundance of potassium contained in bananas. I admit it… I was trying to wean her off those expensive potassium pills she buys on aisle #1 in Stop & Shop.

Yes, she is concerned with health and nutrition.  OK, she agreed that bananas are good for us, even if they were not her thing… but, after all, there would be a clear benefit, at least to me.  And yes, maybe she would try one or two; but only with cornflakes and milk.

An unforeseen problem ensued.  You have to understand this about Sandy: she hates fruit flies.  Last year we were “invaded” (her word) by the pests, and it was determined that my bananas (ripening to perfection on the kitchen counter) were the cause.  Alright, we got one of those dumb wooden banana holders, and the bananas and their holder were exiled to a shelf in the garage. 

Sorry, I thought this was inappropriate.  Bananas need good air.  And besides that wooden thing looked like a gibbet.  It didn’t look like we were ripening bananas… it looked like we had executed them.

But, like Pharaoh, her heart was hardened.  My complaints fell on deaf ears.  

Then she just put on this surprised expression when I had nine fake banana trees installed in our backyard.  I picked them up second hand from a set design company (it’s amazing what you can find on the internet). I explained to her that the space between our deck and the stone wall was a perfect location for a banana grove.  Where else would we put it?  In the bathroom?  She conceded that if we had to have a banana grove, it was the best place for it.

I felt better… now when we return from our Sunday grocery shopping, I climb a ladder and fix a bunch to one of our trees!  Perfect.  Anytime I want a banana, I simply go out to the yard and pluck one from a tree!

Beautiful bunch of ripe banana

Daylight come an’ me wan’ go home

Hide the deadly black tarantula

Daylight come an’ me wan’ go home

Fake banana trees?  And look at this… fake tarantulas!  What’s a banana tree without a lurking tarantula? I love it! You can find anything on the internet!  

But it took considerable persuasion on my part to convince her to take the next logical step and extend our hospitality to a Silverback Lowland Gorilla.  And not some stuffed Steiff toy either.

It happened this way. 

Bridgeport’s Beardsley Zoo has been experiencing some financial difficulty. A combination of the economic downturn and steep budget cuts imposed by Bridgeport Mayor, Bill Finch, have had a serious impact on Zoo operations.  This year the Zoo’s Foundation launched Project Outreach.  One of the programs developed within Project Outreach was to allow for certain animals to be placed in private homes for an over night or weekend stay. For a set fee private citizens could enroll in “Take A Friend Home”.  And then, there would be an additional fee depending on the size and type of animal, for a night or weekend stay.

For the Zoo it was a “win-win”… decrease the overhead in caring for animals, and increase revenue from the fees generated in the “Take A Friend Home” program.  I checked out the Beardsley web site… checked out the Take A Friend Home program… checked out the list of available animals and their costs.

$125 one time registration fee. $500 for a weekend with a Silverback Lowland Gorilla. Done!!

*********

“This is Moses.”

“Why is he wearing an Eisenhower jacket?”

“I picked it up at the Newtown Consignment Shop on Route 25.  I judge it to be circa Korean War.  I had the sleeves lengthened.  Looks good, no?  I didn’t want the neighbors to complain that we had a naked gorilla in our yard.”

I know what you are thinking… this was not a very good idea.  To me this was no big deal.  First, Sandy has gone on record as saying “no” to cats (I was fine with that), and “no” to dogs (that pinched; but I understood why, and agreed)… but she had never said “no” to gorillas.

Next, I felt that we would be doing something good for Bridgeport.  It is the City where Sandy has worked for twenty plus years.  And Lord knows that Bridgeport needs help!

Finally, I knew that a Lowland Gorilla would give authenticity to our banana grove. At least for a weekend.

“I find his name offensive.”

“Well”, I pointed out, “we didn’t name him. They did.”

“I don’t care.  It’s a sacrilege to name a gorilla after our greatest Prophet of all time!  I am not going to call him ‘Moses’.  I’m going to call him Maishe!”

“OK.  Maishe works for me.” It may sound “ghetto”.  Well it is!  Jewish Ghetto! Maishe is simply the Yiddish diminutive for Moses.  But I got to wondering if Sandy was named after our greatest left hander of all time.  That thought could hold for another day.

“And what’s all that stuff in the back of your car?”

“I stopped off at the market and bought 10 bunches of bananas, 4 bunches of broccoli rabe, 2 bunches of fennel, oh… and a pound of cherries for you, they were on special.  Then I stopped off at the garden place next to San Remos and laid in a supply of broad leaf ferns and pachysandra.”

“Will Maishe eat ferns and pachysandra?”

“No, the ferns and the pachysandra are for his bedding.  Gorillas make nests in the ground from leaves and branches every night.  The pachysandra probably won’t be of much use on this visit…” I let this thought linger for a fraction of a second, “… But the ferns and available small shrubs should be adequate for now.”  And then I put in, “I just don’t want him getting into my mint.”

“And just where is our guest going to go potty?”

“In the yard next door.  The Henderson’s have gone to Nantucket for the summer.  Besides, gorillas are very clean animals.  They don’t shit where they eat or sleep.  After Maishe and I knock off a few bananas, I’ll go next door and take a dump behind the Henderson’s maxi rhododendron.  Maishe will get the idea.  If you want… you can take a dump there, too.  Think of it as primate bonding.”

After our Saturday breakfast of bananas and more bananas, Sandy asked what I intended to do with Maishe for the day.  “I thought it might be fun to expose Maishe to a little taste of Woodbury charm.  Take in a few tag sales, the local framer’s market {all organic}, perhaps a bit of antiquing.  That sort of thing.”

No, I came up with an even better idea… why not introduce him to some of our constabulary?  That’s the ticket!  Maishe and I hopped in the Hummer and I drove around town at a menacingly 7 mph above the posted speed limit.  I drove by every known ambush position that the Woodbury fuzz share with the State gendarmes.  What would they think about a 428 pound gorilla in an Eisenhower jacket?  Go ahead, stop me!  I dare you!

“Come ‘n get me copper!  My man Maishe is going to fuck you up!”

In the afternoon we pulled into the Dairy Delite for a small vanilla custard in a waffle cone. We were sitting on the outside benches, taking in the view, minding our own business, enjoying our ice creams, bothering no one and hoping that a cop would see us, when I noticed these teenaged toughs glaring at us.

I glared back, “What d’ya lookin’ at sucka?”

Then I whispered into Maishe’s ear, now it’s time to do your beat the chest thing and show your impressive canine teeth… but Maishe was too caught up in his cone.  So I beat my chest and showed my canine teeth and the kids scattered like terrified rabbits.  Maybe they weren’t teenagers… but they had to be close to ten.

We got back in the Hummer and continued our patrol.  To no avail.  Where’s the police when you really need them?

*************

As the weekend came to a close Sandy, Maishe and I shared a view of the setting sun from our deck.  Sandy, a glass of chilled Chardonnay, me, my customary extra-dry martini and Maishe, a virgin banana daiquiri.  I considered the weekend a huge success.  Granted… it would have been better if the police had tried to stop us.

Sandy simply stared at me above the rim of her Grgich-Hills.

When I returned to Bridgeport the Beardsley people were wonderful, greeting Maishe like a long lost relative.  I thanked them.

“Moses was an exceptional guest.  FYI, he prefers broccoli rabe cooked to raw.  I sautéed them in garlic & oil with white beans and pancetta.  He loved it!  Oh… and you can keep the Eisenhower jacket… he wouldn’t take it off all weekend.”

As for Sandy… there are new prohibitions that have been imposed.  Gorillas have been added to the “no” list.  Pachyderms, reptiles and rodents, too.  The latter is disappointing… I had my eye on a hefty capybara. I returned the fake banana trees and tarantulas (well I kept one of the tarantulas… I thought it would be fun to place it in the guest bathroom).

But all is not lost.  An Emu is just $65 for an over night, and it does not appear on the “no” list.  Ha hoo!  And even more important… bananas are now permitted back in the kitchen.

Work all night an’ drink rum

Stack banana ’til de morning come…

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